A Tale of Two Burgers: What's the Beef vs Hoagie Hut

There is no secret spot that this post will reveal, no unknown pleasure that is waiting under a unassuming facade- just the musing of a self proclaimed food lover as I ate my lunch today.

First, the players: What's the Beef on Clybourn and the Hoagie Hut on Lincoln. Aside from being reasonably close to my house, there is nothing about these two places that screams for an automatic comparison. They both offer a very serviceable burger, halfway between the thick patty pub style and the slim 30's style ala Steak and Shake. Neither place is named for their burger offering, but they are both still good. I've eaten at both several times in the last several months and offer my opinions as such...

What's the Beef seems like it would be a perfect LTH place. Large signs advertise that the beef is never frozen and the fries are freshly hand cut. It occupies an unassuming spot across from Trader Joe's, nestled between several clothing stores. Its burger has all the markings of a great fast food burger. The patty is clearly hand formed, never frozen, and cooked on a grill with grates (vs the flat grill that some places use.) The bun is toasted and topped with sesame seeds. But, alas, the eating proved difficult. The burger quickly disintegrated inside the bread. The patty, which held so much promise, turns into a greasy mess, though still retaining a somewhat beefy taste. Lettuce and tomato were conventional and unremarkable. Really, this burger should have been fantastic, but ended up a soggy, messy glop of burger promise unanswered.

On the other hand, Hoagie Hut also offers a burger. It is hidden on their menu, which boasts such delights as the garlic extra beefy philly cheesesteak and the hot italian hoagie (beware - this is not your typical potbelly sandwich.) This burger has much less to love - lightly toasted plain bun, clearly pre-formed frozen burger disks that were slapped unceremoniously onto the flat grilltop. But somehow, the whole was more than the sum of its parts and this burger was great. Perfect american cheese that didn't get lost in the patty. Crisp lettuce that crunches as you bit through the burger, a hint of mustard that tarts up the whole thing. Not break down the walls and cause and LTH-stampede, but good enough to make my regular lunch rotation and the best standby place in LP to get a quick decent burger. (Nowhere near as good as a Thatsaburger, but better than regional other offerings - including Muskies, I'm afraid.)

As I was eating at the Hoagie Hut today, I pondered why the better burger between these two places is NOT theone made with less love and care. I have always maintained that the perfect burger is defined as much by proportion as anything else, but both of these burgers were well-proportioned. You would think that the superior ingredients would make one better, but I think that aside from the meat, the buns/lettuce/tomato/mustard are all likely the same Sysco product at both places. Could it be that the flat grill works better than the grill grates- as that would be the only cooking difference. I'm not sure. Both are good burgers, I was just surprised by which on I like more...

What's the Beef
1863 N Clybourn Ave
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 477-7200

Hoagie Hut
2580 N Lincoln Ave
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-0900

veeral wrote:
On the other hand, Hoagie Hut also offers a burger. It is hidden on their menu....Not break down the walls and cause and LTH-stampede, but good enough to make my regular lunch rotation and the best standby place in LP to get a quick decent burger. (Nowhere near as good as a Thatsaburger, but better than regional other offerings - including Muskies, I'm afraid.)

Muskie's USED to be a lot better. More meat, more cheese, less cost. Better and more fries. But at least that knockoff 2nd location on Belmont is history.

Did you ever try the cheeseburger hoagie at the Hut? 2 burgers on the sub roll, plus sub and burger toppings.