Interesting Asian spots continue to sprout up in the strip malls of the Northwest suburbs. Cheogajip is one of only two U.S. outposts of what I am told is a popular Korean fried chicken and pizza chain and has recently opened in Niles at 8273 W. Golf Rd..
Situated along the southern edge of a large shopping mall just East of Milwaukee ave. It's not readily visible from the main street. It's clear that the target audience is Korean from the sign, which aside from "Chicken and Pizza" in English is entirely in Korean characters. No matter, as the grinning ,"thumbs up" giving, aviator helmet wearing cartoon chicken tells all you really need to know. The menu is ( I suppose not surprisingly) limited to chicken and pizza.
Chicken is available as whole birds,wings and popcorn style and is cooked to order, so there's going to be a wait if you haven't called ahead. Cut into myriad pieces Chinese style ( though with the legs and wings are left whole) the breading is light and crispy with a beer batter like texture and a peppery finish.All the chicken is cooked with this batter and then served either plain or coated with your choice of "sweet and mild" or "hot and spicy" sauce.
You can get these sauces on the side by request but by default the pieces will otherwise be dipped / drenched in sauce. Judging from the steady stream of customers (all Korean) who came and went while I waited for my "love letter chicken" (which the menu explains is the American name for Cheogajip), the drenched style seems most popular. I had the sauce on the side on the advice of Geno , one of the owners, who felt the chicken traveled better that way, but this was a minority position.It worked well for me though, as both sauces were tomato based, garlicky,sticky and rather sweet and to my taste a little went a long way.
All orders come with a small dish of seasoned salt and cups of shredded cabbage and pickled radish. No other sides are available. That is, except for the pizza. It seems the whole idea is to have these together, as multiple combinations are featured (kind of like chicken and waffles, Seoul style I guess).
Pizzas come only in one size, about 10 inches across, are cut into eight wedges and are obviously the expression of a concept of "Pizza"very different from what I am used to. Toppings include sweet potato,regular potato, bul gogi and "Royal Potato" which I had (again on Geno's advice). This is evidently a house specialty and features a yeasty (almost Little Ceasers type) crust split into two thin layers with a layer of sweet potato in between, and is topped with sweet peppers, roasted potatoes, bul gogi, pepperoni and "four kinds of cheese". A nice touch is that some extra cheese is sprinkled on the rim giving it a toasted cheese semi-Pequad/Burt like finish. Downright odd to be sure, but I actually liked it quite a bit and found that it went well along side my "love letter" chicken and pickled radish.
The place itself is cheery (in a fast food franchise sort of way), and the mostly bilingual staff friendly and helpful. There are a few tables and a row of mini "tea house" style booths for dining in, tho from what I could tell they did a brisk mostly take out business.
I liked Cheogajip, and while I don't think it's likely to replace Popeye's in my heart of hearts, it's definitely worth checking out.
Now if I could just figure out why there's a drawing of what looks like Tevia and little orpan Annie on every box.
Cheogajip Chicken and Pizza
8273 W. Golf Road
Niles IL 847-583-1582.
Lacking fins or tail
The Gefilte fish
swims with great difficulty.
Jewish haiku.