
They know the words but not the music.
Ruby's is a cozy hole-in-the-wall with an archetypal pass-through from a spacious kitchen, and its young staff was extremely welcoming and pleasant. The signs inside and out say "Memphis Barbecue" and tout Brisket, Pulled Pork, Rib Tips, and Chicken. The prices are quite low for the offerings - $4.95 buys you a sandwich with two generous sides from a pretty big list, which Antoniusly includes "BBQ Spaghetti" along with a few types of potato along with mac and cheese, slaw, spinach, and beans. $10.95 lands a combo dinner of 2 meat 'n three, meat list including tips, chicken, pork, brisket, and ribs.

But at least what I sampled tonight did not reflect the menu's promise. They've been open two months - albeit a tough period for dining out - but there is no evidence of woodsmoke out on Halsted or in the restaurant itself. I was initially turned off by a miasma of stale cigarette smoke in the space that admittedly could have been inherited from the back room of an adjoining business, but needs to be addressed. An extremely quick order turnaround suggested I was getting something out of the bin or pot instead of off the smoker rack and cutting board, and the lukewarm, sopping-wet meats confirmed it, especially disappointing at primetime, 6 PM.


Both the brisket and pork on our sandwiches had the ever-living moo and oink cooked out of them, rendering every bit of fat and leaving only dry stringy shreds married by an insipid broth of sugary tomato sauce, with some faded Carolina color added by way of some vinegar. The wetness destroyed what might have been some decent (though industrial) soft split-top buns, and also spread to everything else in the bag. In both sandwiches, there was a peculiar cheesy aftertaste we didn't enjoy. There was no hint of smoke, either from the cooking process or the aftermarket l*qu*d variety, the overall impression being something like Russell's, but without the familiar "shaved" texture of that institution.

Sides were better - beans were inoffensive, probably slightly doctored from a can, and mac and cheese was better than average, with what tasted like real butter (browned a bit overmuch), lined elbow pasta, and mild cheddarish cheese. Everything was only slightly warmer than room temperature right on the doorstep before further transportation.
I did not get to try the ribs, tips, or chicken, which may be prepared in a totally different process than the sandwiches, as is occasionally the case. But with places like Smoque, Honky Tonk, Smokin' M's, and Smoke Daddy pulling the same quality product off the rack for the sandwiches as the platters (and Uncle John's, Lem's, and Honey-1 letting you make your own with nice squishy white bread), I'm not inclined to give Ruby's a second shot anytime soon when they aren't putting the love into their sandwiches, value-priced as they may be.
This is a heck of a market to try to open a new place - the Ruby's name has been around since 1955, but this one just the aforementioned two months - and I applaud the gumption and the warm welcome of the proprietors. For primetime in the current Chicago barbecue landscape, they might be well-served by checking out some of the nearby competitors (maybe even finding a good wood source) and/or partnering with a local bakery, of which there are several of high quality very nearby. I can only wish them well.
Note that the business name is actually:
Ruby's Ribs (Ruby's South, Inc.)
3551 S. Halsted
773-823-1889
Current hours:
Closed Monday
Tu-Th 4-11 PM
Fri-Sat 4-12 PM
Sun 4-9 PM