RAB and I ate at Opart Thai in Lincoln Square on Friday. Opart is the first Thai restaurant I visited as a kid - - before there were Thai restaurants throughout the city and suburbs. It's also one of very few restaurants to serve me a dish that was so spicy I couldn't possibly finish it. I have happy memories of Opart, but they are at least fifteen years old.
RAB suggested to our dining companions that we go to TAC Quick, instead. But, because the guest of honor is moving from Chicago and Opart is her favorite restaurant, we agreed to go.
After having enjoyed TAC recently, Opart's food seemed flat. Flavors were dull. Our requests for spicy food were ignored. Prices seemed reasonable until smallish portions were served.
We started with four appetizers. The best was the chicken larb - - flavorful and tangy. The two beef apps were okay - - tiger cry and Neau Sa-Ded. They are both "charbroiled" beef dishes, with different sauces. Because we had a party of five, we thought it wise to get two beef dishes because one wouldn't have been enough. The beef was tasty and the sauces were decent - - but neither were special. The biggest appetizer flop was the sampler platter: Egg roll, fried shumai, crab rangoon, shrimp spring roll. The egg roll was flavorless. The teeny shumai were gummy. The shrimp spring roll was just a small shrimp wrapped in a thin won ton and deep fried. I think you need a much more substantial shrimp to make it work. I didn't try the crab rangoon (not my thing).
We decided to share the mains, too. The best was a cousin of the larb, another ground meat dish - - Pad Kra Praow (sauteed basil and hot peppers with ground pork). It was fine. Nice sauce, nice pork. It was listed in the "hot and spicy" section, but had barely any sting. We had two more "hot and spicy" selections. The Pad Prik King (sauteed ginger, chili paste and green beans with chicken). Chicken was dry. Flavor was fine, though. The worst dish of the night was the Peanut Sauce Lover (sauteed cashew nuts, white and green onions with peanut sauce, with chicken). This was the choice of the guest of honor, who'd had it many times before. She, fortunately, adored the dish and ate much of it. I thought it was barely edible - - dry chicken with a thinned-out peanut sauce. Even the cashews were lost in this land of bland. Finally, we had a catfish dish (fried catfish sauteed with red curry paste, Thai eggplant and green beans). The bite I had was soggy and fishy. RAB found his to be okay, though. The eggplant was way undercooked, which is not a good thing for eggplant.
Bottom Line - - It's not what it once was. When I went through my teenage years, Thai food wasn't ubiquitous. You had to seek it out. My memories are of searing, fresh food. Perhaps the increase in the popularity of Thai food led to the decline in the quality of Opart's food. Perhaps they had to dumb things down to accommodate the palates of their expanding customer base. Or, perhaps Opart just isn't very good. In any event, the restaurant was pretty full throughout our long meal there. So, there are clearly many folks other than my friend who call themselves fans.
(Atypically, I ate Thai food for lunch on Friday, too - - at the quite average, but pleasant and quick, My Thai in the Depaul building on State in the South Loop. Rather surprisingly, my woon sen pad thai at lunch was better than anything I ate for dinner that night at Opart.)
Ronna