Some casual inquiries this week have led me to conclude that lobes of shad roe are the Connecticut Yankee's answer to chitterlings. Some love 'em, some hate 'em, but everyone has tried them at least once in Grandma's kitchen. In spite of its challenging qualities, shad roe grabs people and won't let them go. One of the stories a coworker told me about the dish was punctuated with quips about Dad being tied to Grandma's apron strings through a craving for shad roe in the springtime, shad roe being something that Mom reluctantly prepared in spite of the smell that lingered in the house afterward. This clearly resonated with the other staff members, who laughed and said that it was the same scenario in their homes growing up. The visceral tie to the matriarch unleashed by the dish seems fitting, given the shad's hatching and development in freshwater, followed by years at sea that culminate in a long journey from the ocean upriver during the spring.
One of my coworkers reported that her husband began pestering her last week to call the local fishmonger daily to obtain the first shad roe available. Another friend, who grew up on a nearby farm, tells me that his mother, like all the mothers he knew, used to prepare it at his father's request -it was far from a rare item for gourmets. The numbers of shad in the Eastern watershed seem to bear this out. Apparently, shad fishing remains a significant contributor to the economy in Connecticut and Massachusetts (see link below).
I learned that shad fillets, like chitterlings, require careful preparation. In the case of the shad, I am told by my coworker that this has to do with making a number of specific cuts to remove the network of tiny bones. The traditional outdoor fish preparation relates to the oily nature of the fish and the need to burn off the oil in the open air. Another method involves pickling, which makes sense since shad is related to the herring family. My coworkers endorsed the bacon-wrapping method of preparing the roe. Perhaps a side of crispy bacon could improve a dish of soft chitterlings as well?
For those who might be interested in more information about shad, here is a link to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service information page on shad. A bit of trivia from the site: shad's Latin name,
Alosa sapidissima, means Alosa "most savory."
http://www.fws.gov/r5crc/Fish/zb_alsa.html
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.