If understatement is a statement, SugarToad is a screamer.
Attractive room, attentive, knowledgeable and friendly service, excellent ingredients and darned good technique in the kitchen. The food is upscale, regional American (tidal Virginia would be my description), and the place bears a lot of similarities to Prairie Grass Cafe, which is high praise. The goal may be to be something like Vie, but I can't make that comparison.
But nothing, not one dish (okay maybe one, but it is a weird one) made me go Wow. And I expected a lot more wow.
As reported everywhere, the amuse is a little taste of SugarToad (a Chesapeake Bay Blowfish) - a bit of fried tail in a creamy bit of sauce. It was a promising start.
We started with a couple of soups - mine was an excellent buttnernut squash and nut (pecan, I believe) soup, not too sweet, well balanced, rich squash flavor. My companion also started with a soup, and then moved on to a spinach salad, with a poached local egg, bacon and a light, tasty dressing, it was reported. From there, we went on to mains, pan-seared arctic char on a bed of fennel and mushrooms for me, and the current duck dish on which I can supply no details.
Which brings me to this - there is a menu on
SugarToad's web site, but the menu changes daily and while it resembled the menu on the site, it also differed a lot in specific preparations. Guess I should have asked for a copy of that day's menu.
For dessert I ordered the Tapioca Pudding, based on Jimmy's Mom's recipe I was told, and it was wonderful, creamy, dressed with a sprig of mint, and some dried fruit, rich, creamy and just delightful. Easily the high point of the meal.
The wine list is limited to American bottlings, proudly in the spirit of locavores. Markups seemed high, the wines were, for the most part, pretty young and while there were a few interesting things on the list, it was unexciting - the Pinot Noirs were clearly the best and we had an enjoyable Dumol.
SugarToad is a very good restaurant. The ingredients are clearly of the best quality and they take center stage, as opposed to kitchen magic or assertive seasonings, and I respect that, as I respect the sure hand that delivered each plate perfectly prepared, and the strong service. But aside from that Tapioca, I was not wowed, and I really wanted to be wowed.
I need to take the Bride, and I will report on that meal. That should help me figure out if the understatement is the statement, or just what I ordered.
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Feeling (south) loopy