Something is wrong at Farmerie 58, but it's hard to tell exactly what it is. The talent of the well-pedigreed chef shines through on some dishes; the servers appear dedicated and work with a smile; the owners walk around the room and clearly care. Somehow, all of that added up to a pretty disappointing dinner last night.
None of my companions had read
Monica Eng's piece in The Stew, yet three of them - completely unprompted by me - complained that their food had been served luke warm at best. It's unclear whether this is a kitchen or a front-of-house problem. Much as it's unclear exactly why our server repeatedly took drink orders, said "I'll be right back with this," and then apologized about 20 minutes later, still without delivering said drinks. Or why she asked for and confirmed specific instructions about how we'd like our order paced, and then the busboy delivered things completely out of the order we had requested. Again, everyone here seemed to have a positive attitude and appeared to be busting their butt. Were they short staffed? Is it the restaurant's configuration, which does seem to be quite a mess? There is a huge upstairs dining room, parts of which seem to be a football field away from the bar and kitchen. There's a sushi bar making lots of dishes, and that's nowhere near the kitchen, where everything else comes out. The space problems definitely seemed to contribute to the chaotic and inefficient service.
Service gaffes would have been more forgivable had the food been better. Butternut squash soup with toasted garlic would have been better named "Cream soup with pale orange color, with burnt garlic." I've been cooking lots of butternut squash at home lately. This year's crop has had bright orange flesh and full squashy flavor. It was almost hard to believe that this soup contained the ingredient at all, as there was absolutely no discernable squash taste. The smooth, thick puree had a nice texture for a few spoonfuls, but then it became overwhelmingly rich. The black, charred garlic slivers floating atop added nothing but a very unpleasant, bitter taste. A black cod entree was well-prepared, but the delicate fish was served on a bed of smoked cheddar grits which completely overwhelmed it, and a pesto crust that just didn't belong.
Some dinner items fared much better. A big short rib was slow-cooked tender and full of meaty flavor, served with a nice cauliflower puree and some excellent, simple roasted carrots. The potato-andouille rösti on the plate was a mostly-forgettable mess of shoestring potatoes with no discernable sausage taste. A sweet potato appetizer had perfectly roasted, 1/2-inch thick, sweet slices served atop a beautifully-textured parsnip risotto and perfectly ripe, fresh figs. Bread service was excellent as well - very fresh dark rye, white, and wheat breads served with a house made truffle-honey butter that was addictive.
Farmerie 58 is a nice place with dedicated personnel and interesting dinner offerings. With the huge, ambitious menu, I fear they've just taken on too much. Here's hoping that they prove me wrong and turn the place around very soon.
Farmerie 58
58 E. Ontario St
312-440-1818
...defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in
The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis
Fuckerberg on Food