Last night, I found myself downtown looking for a place to eat. After being denied service at two or three places (It's Saturday night of Valentine's Day weekend and you have no reservation? What were you thinking?), I went to Trader Vic's spurred on by this discussion. Trader Vic's is a faux Polynesian Restaurant in the basement of the Palmer House that is filled with kitch and has a menu to match. The waiter really was pushing the Bongo Bongo soup as a Valentine's Day elixer, but I was there for one thing and one thing only...Almond (pressed) Duck.
First of all, let me point out that this place has some real potential to be more than a touristy trick of a hotel restaurant. They have some wood burning ovens that are prominently displayed in the dining room (through glass) where they cook many of their meats.
Polynesian Wood Burning Ovens
I had to sample some of the meats cooked in these ovens, so I ordered an appetizer plate called Cosmo's Tidbits, which is the standard chop suey joint appetizer combo plate consisting of BBQ pork, crab rangoon, deep fried shrimp and BBQ ribs. I did detect a subtle smokyness to the meats, but they were no better or worse than any of these types of platters served at any of 1000 Chinese-American restaurants in the city. I will say that the ribs and pork were not greasy/fatty at all. Sadly, I didn't try the carb rangoon, deciding to let the Chow Poodle go nuts as a Valentine's Day treat.
The restaurant was pretty crowded with Valentine's Day Couples and Convention Goers, and both the service and the quality of the food suffered accordingly. Our meal was pretty dissapointing, but I've been there many times before and I know they can (and ususally do) do better. I'm chalking it up to the busy weekend, so I wouldn't take my duck review as gospel. I'll have to go back again during the week for a more definitive review. Last night, the duck was not very good.
Trader Vic's Almond Duck
The duck came out smothered in a dark cloyingly sweet sauce. It didn't have its usual overtones of cherries, but rather tasted more like weak BBQ sauce. The duck itself was overcooked and dry...almost like they fried it twice as long as they should have. Like I said, I've had this dish before and its been better. My dining companions both had the mahi mahi with macadamia crust and thought theirs was overcooked a bit as well. Hopefully, this is not a downhill trend for Trader Vic's. I'll go back in a month or so to give it another try and will report back.
Steve Z.
“Only the pure in heart can make a good soup.”
― Ludwig van Beethoven