Tassili (Algerian)

Tassili restaurant takes its name from the south-eastern Algerian mountain range of Tassili N'Ajjer (Amazigh for "plateau of rivers"), a world heritage site that contains cave drawings over 3000 years old. The restaurant, located next to recent LTH favorite Zebda is one of Chicago's few Algerian joints. The word "joint" most aptly describes the place; it reminds me of pre-renovation Salam, circa 1998 - cramped with small tables, sparsely decorated and populated by colorful cabbies chowing down on a rotating menu of daily specials.

I first noticed Tassili on a visit to Zebda. On that occasion I was disappointed with my meal at Zebda and cursed myself for not taking a chance instead on the place next door. A few weeks later I rectified my mistake and paid Tassili a visit.

I went on a Friday afternoon after prayers at MCC, located a few doors north-west on Elston. Post-Friday prayer lunches are a big deal for Muslims, so Tassili was absolutely packed. The clients represented a broad swath of the Muslim world as well as Chicago's northwest side immigrant population - North Africans, Arabs, South Asians and Somalis were eating should-to-shoulder, drinking tea and watching soccer on the big screen TV in the back of the place.

My Algerian friend and I ordered two of the daily specials listed on the chalkboard at the counter. I don't think this place even has a set menu. I had grilled liver with zaalouk and french fries, while my friend took a lamb couscous. We shared a table with another Algerian fellow, and within minutes our food arrived, piping hot. I asked for some harissa and it came out quickly.

The food was great. The liver was a bit chewy, but very flavorful, and the zaalouk, a North African mash of roasted vegetables was a good foil for the offal. The house-cut fries were well-fried if a bit limp, but great dipped in some harissa. My friend's couscous was bountiful, with giant cuts of carrot and turnip, and tender braised lamb. In typical Algerian style, the veggies and meat were not powerfully spiced, merely lightly perfumed with coriander, cumin and other North African/Middle Eastern spices. I've often heard people complain that North African food is "bland." This seems to be the taste that many Algerians and Morrocans prefer, and any disappointment with lack of "spiceness" probably has more to do with inexperienced diners who expect all food from India to Mauritania to taste like "curry" than with a kitchen that puts out bad food. The couscous was great.

For dessert we picked out an Algerian specialty whose name I can't remember but basically consisted of a delicate, honey-soaked pastry shell surrounding a coarse, marzipan-like filling (North Africans do a lot of desserts with marzipan). It went very well with a glass of mint tea.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to make it back to Tassili, so this review is based solely on one experience. But I'd go back in a heartbeat if I had the time.

Best,

Habibi

Oh and of course, pictures.









Tassili
4342 North Elston Avenue
Chicago, Illinois 60641
(773) 685-6773

Habibi wrote:I've often heard people complain that North African food is "bland." This seems to be the taste that many Algerians and Morrocans prefer, and any disappointment with lack of "spiceness" probably has more to do with inexperienced diners who expect all food from India to Mauritania to taste like "curry" than with a kitchen that puts out bad food. The couscous was great.

Habibi,

Was wondering where I was going to go for my occasional couscous fix now that Hashalom has closed, seems you found the answer. Interesting about the mildness of North African food, I associate harrisa with the region so equate a bit of zing with the cuisine.

Enjoy,
Gary