Briejo, Oak ParkWhen a new restaurant opens in Oak Park, there’s usually an initial rush of enthusiasm, powered by local hopes that this will be the neighborhood restaurant that’s recognized as the equal of Chicago’s almost always better joints.
Such has it been with Briejo (pronounced Bree-Joe), which though without signage nor any kind of announcement in local papers, has been filling up since it soft-opened last week. Thursday, I went there with a bunch of women.
The tempura artichoke with soy-ginger aioli was a somewhat original concept…

…though the tempura batter was a bit heavy for the teensy pieces of artichoke. I’d recommend the chef go with bigger slices of artichoke or less batter so that that the flavor of the tasty thistle comes through the fry-coat more cleanly. And I’d expect a tempura to be much lighter and airy. Did they really use rice flour for this preparation?
Our very attentive, helpful, and always-aiming-to-please server recommended the grilled shrimp on a bed of tropical fruit salsa, and the shrimps were good…

…as was the salsa, though all a touch pedestrian (I’ve had this grilled seafood plus fruit flavor many times; no slam to it, but it didn’t move me or take me anywhere new…maybe my expectations are too high).
My duck leg confit had very good herbal flavor and was placed on a tasty hillock of French lentils and slightly underdone Brussels sprouts (much preferable to slightly overdone)…

…though the first bite had me wondering if it was actually “confited.” I asked Bridgette, who owns the place with her partner (formerly of Tomboy), if the duck really went through the usual process of poaching in its own fat, and she introduced me to the chef, who confirmed that it had. Nonetheless, it lacked the lushness of the dish as I prepare it at home. I will probably never again order duck confit in a restaurant; I just make it too good in my own kitchen. Do I boast? Then I boast. It’s true.
My fashion-conscious daughters loved the room (lots of oranges and reds, very lively and somehow feminine), and it was overall a pleasant experience to eat at Briejo. We all loved that the floor-to-ceiling mirrors were canted so as to make our reflected selves look taller and slimmer. Still, the pricing seemed a little high ($9 for four smallish – maybe 26/30 -- shrimp?), and the dishes didn’t come through quite as powerfully as I might have hoped, but maybe the chef is just playing it safe for now. The place is new, the owners seem high-energy and sincere, and I expect they will improve with time. I understand they went through some predictable bureaucratic hassles getting their place set up, which is probably typical for those hoping to launch a capitalist enterprise in the People’s Republic of Oak Park.
Is Breijo at this point worth a drive from, say, Chicago? Probably not, yet, but for this quadrant of the village (Harrison Art District), it’s a contender, and it would be my preference over virtually-just-opened Trattoria 225 or timeworn warhorse La Majada, both within a scone’s throw of this sleeker, sharp-dressed new comer.
Briejo
211 Harrison, Oak Park
708.84.2743
http://www.briejo.com:80/
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins