superb chilaquiles at Cocula

Hi,

I was way down on 117th and Pulaski on Friday morning and after finishing my errand and passing dozens of taco joints, I found myself thoroughly craving a proper Mexican breakfast. By that I mean eggs in some fashion with rice, beans and tortillas. As I headed back north on Pulaski toward the 55 my eyes scanned both sides of the street for a Mexican restaurant. I passed the taco joints and multiple mariscos places, but none of those were yet open. I passed family style restaurants (one proclaiming it served an Irish breakfast, intriguing but not what I was after) and even a Huck Finn doughnuts, but I continued on. I was about to give up hope and then right around 52nd street I saw a restaurant with a shiny sign with a cactus on it--in a flash I also saw Mexican and Family Restaurant. As I pulled in it struck me that it looked a whole lot like a Mexican Denny's and that was not in any way encouraging but at that point I was so hungry that I didn't really care.

When I stepped in the doors I was overcome with the feeling that everything was going to be just fine as it smelled like real Mexican cooking_ garlic and onions and tomatoes and chicken broth, just that warm smell of an active, lively kitchen. The decor was schmaltzy ranchero/patio style but it smelled so good, I didn't even blink.

The menu only listed 5 breakfast platters: huevos rancheros, huevos a la Mexicana, huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs) huevos with chorizo and the one that made me very happy -- chilaquiles. I am in the camp that likes eggs in her chilaquiles, not too many, but just enough to hold the tortillas and cheese and other stuff together. You had a choice of a green sauce or red sauce and I chose green. I also ordered a tall orange juice.

The OJ came just like they serve it all over Mexico--fresh squeezed (from oranges that aren't cold and so the juice is at room temp) in a tall parfait glass. I was slurping that down happily when the waitress returned with a surprise complimentary cup of soup. I think I was on the cusp enough of lunch that they just decided to throw in the soup and I am so tickled they did. It was a sopa de fideo of sorts--a tomato and chicken broth with thin noodles, but it also had big hunks of carrot, squash and bits of green beans. Whoever is in that kitchen knows how to make soup, it was just so nicely balanced and spritely and right on. (And I can't recall another time I've had a soup course before breakfast!) I would go back just to taste other soups. The folks next to me were both enjoying large bowls of something soupy, despite the heat outside they seemed pretty content.

Then came the chilaquiles: it was a large serving with beans that were nice and soupy (how they ought to be, not starchy and dry) and Mexican rice that was moist with big hunks of onions and potatoes in it and then at the top of the plate there were four fat slices of ripe avocado.
The chilaquiles has just the right amount of egg, little flecks of egg holding the tortillas which were crispy on the edges and soft at the center. The sauce was light but gave a bit of twang and there were bits of cilantro and onions as well. It was sprinkled generously with a mild white cheese. It was basically a big ol' mess of things and I'd say this was the most satisfying plate of chilaquiles I've had since I used to get them at a tiny diner in Pacific Beach, CA back in the 80s. The breakfast cost $5.50 and was so large that I ended up eating the leftovers yesterday. Chilaquiles re-cook really well, like all good "hashes" or jumbles do.

The restaurant is called La Cocula and it's at 5241 S. Pulaski.

If anyone has had any other meals there I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

bjt

I want to be the first on record stating la cocula is a very funny name.

AngrySarah wrote:I want to be the first on record stating la cocula is a very funny name.

I pass this restaurant often, although I have never stopped in. I agree with AngrySarah about the name. Whenever we drive by, I always comment to my wife that we are passing Count Chocula's restaurnat. She stopped being amused around 8 years ago.

n.b. there are a few la Cocula locations in the Chicago area, it's a local mini-chain.

One is at California and Cermak, right across the street from El Nuevo Kappy's.


I haven't verified any of these addresses except the Pulaski and California/Cermak ones:


Cocula Restaurant
5241 S Pulaski Rd, Chicago, IL
5.2 mi SW - (773) 582-2900

Cocula Restaurant
2801 W Cermak Rd, Chicago, IL
2.3 mi W - (773) 847-2780

Cocula Restaurant
8847 S Commercial Ave, Chicago, IL
9.5 mi SE - (773) 374-3214

Cocula Restaurant
4836 W Cermak Rd, Cicero, IL
4.9 mi W - (708) 652-0500

Cocula Restaurant
645 Torrence Ave, Calumet City, IL
17 mi S - (708) 862-7250


Oh, and Beth *really* wants to make a "Count Cocula" shirt.

shucks I was so damn happy with my plate of chilaquiles I didn't even let the "funny" name register. That said, upon seeing it, I thought pronounced "Koh-cue-lah" not um, "cock-u-la." Ahem well.

Anyhow, I had a feeling that it was chain-esque, the sign was so pre-fab and the menus are all tripled folded and laminated but it won't stop me from checking it out another time. Since my post, my friend who grew up on the SW side (and is Mexian-American) tells me the Cermak/California location is her favortie spot for a true Mexican breakfast.

I will go hit up my other spanish speaking friend and see if she knows what Cocula actually means. Stay tuned . . .

bjt

Cocula is a city in the state of Jalisco.

More over at Wikipedia, which, as Stephen Colbert reminded us last night, is always 100% correct about whether or not Oregon is Idaho's Portugal.

gleam wrote:Cocula is a city in the state of Jalisco.

More over at Wikipedia, which, as Stephen Colbert reminded us last night, is always 100% correct about whether or not Oregon is Idaho's Portugal.

And as we, his devotees, know and he will tell you, Stephen himself is better than 100% correct about everything.

Went searching for Cocula's on our esteemed site and came across this thread. I can confirm that there is, indeed, a location on Torrence in Cal City, between Sibley and 159th St. I eat here often and always mean to write about it since I really like the place. I can also confirm that the fancy, laminated tri-fold menu is in effect at this location but will make a point to ask if/how they are related to other locations next time I'm there.

I can also report that they have an active Trompo and a nicely seasoned and properly crispy Pastor that I've enjoyed on several occasions. I noticed yesterday that they keep carving it off to get a good crust on the surface and a quantity of shavings were resting at the base of the machine which maybe they heat up on the flat top--regardless, it tasted fresh so I was a happy camper. I tried the Lengua for the first time yesterday--not as good as Chaparrita's but not far off. Good texture and flavor--pieces were just chopped a bit smaller than Chaparrita which is my gold standard.

Other favorites include a fantastic chicken and vegetable soup--Mexican Jewish Grandma style--easily 2 meals-worth and one of my favorite cure-alls. The pork stew and pozole are both hearty and delicious as well.

Almost everything is served with my favorite rice and beans in the Chicagoland/NWI area (sorry Memo's and Tapatio ).

And if anyone does find themselves down that way and wants to check it out, let me know--I have a client 10 minutes away so I'm in the area at least 2-3 days a week for lunch.

There is a Cocula restaurant at 55th and Lagranryside. ge rd that has been open about 1 1/2 yrs in Countryside.
I've eaten there twice and consider it average but at times erratic.I,ve gotten some badly overcooked arachara.
The service is decent if not chaotic.
I prefer Casa Salsa around the corner on 55th east of Lagrange rd about 100ft.