Danny's Restaurant - Iraqi on Western

Hi all - We had a somewhat interesting, moderately enjoyable meal at Danny’s Restaurant last night. Danny’s is a two month old Iraqi restaurant on Western, just south of Devon. I’ve walked by it several times and so decided to try it last night.

The owner and chef was very gracious and as soon as I showed some curiosity was eager to talk about his food and to send some tastes over for us to try. Most of the entrees are around $10-12 and include lentil soup and salad. Many familiar items on the menu, but several that were new to me. We ordered pretty safely and so there may be more interesting dishes on the menu that give a better sense of what the restaurant can do. Here’s what we tried:

Red lentil soup – Very flavorful, well-seasoned with a slight lemony tang.

Salad – Very unexciting – iceberg lettuce, sad tomatoes, some chickpeas and red onions

Kupa (I think this is how Danny tried to spell it) – this was not on the menu and sent over by Danny for us to sample. It was a round disk of dough made of what I believe was cracked wheat and filled with ground beef and spices. The dough, though, was steamed or boiled, not bake or fried so I didn’t enjoy the texture. The beef filling was tasty, though. It was served with a bottle of HP Sauce on the side, something I hadn’t tried before.

Beef Cream Chop – I don’t know where the name comes from as there is no cream in the dish. It was like a chicken-fried beef. – thin slices of beef, marinated, dipped in egg then bread crumbs and fried. Not a whole lot of flavor there. The rice was lovely though – a rice vermicelli pilaf scented with cloves, coriander, and a spice mix that Danny says his uncle brings back from Iraq called “baharat.”

Chicken Shish Kabab – made with ground chicken instead of chicken pieces. As boring as it seemed, it was actually my favorite dish. Juicy, well-seasoned, good char from the grill. I asked for hummus instead of rice. The hummus was fine – very thick and tasting more of lemon than tahini.

We also tried a few falafel, made with fava beans instead of chickpeas. I don’t know if it was the favas or lack of seasoning or both, but while fresh and crispy, they were pretty bland. Served with a slightly sweet, slightly spicy turmeric (think) -based sauce.

Other dishes on the menu that I think will be worth exploring – grilled quails, whole grilled chicken, a whole fish baked in a special sauce, and Iraqi basturma.

Danny’s offers Iraqi Pacha on Saturday’s and Sundays. Danny said that the dish takes about 12 hours to make, that’s why it is only offered on the weekends. If I understood the description correctly, it involves a leg of lamb, lamb stomach stuffed with a ground beef, and lamb tongue. This is not my cup of tea, but I’m sure it calls out to others here. I hope someone tries it and reports. He seemed very proud to offer it.

So while nothing wowed me, I’ll likely go back to try some dishes I missed, especially since it’s just a block from me.

Danny’s Restaurant
Mediterranean Cuisine
6310 N. Western Ave.
773.465-6000

The dishes you named sound Assyrian. The Kubbah (or kibbe) is called Kubbah Mosul (after the city in Northern Iraq). It is a flattened Assyrian variation on the more familiar egg-shaped kibbe. It is often served boiled or steamed rather than fried. I have found that most Assyrian places in Chicago use premade frozen versions. I guess that even if the kubbah is housemade, it is still typically frozen for storage and later use. Thanks for reviewing Danny's. I will check them out soon, since it is fairly close to my house (and I love Assyrian food). BTW, the ground chicken kebabs are a chicken version of Kufta Kebabs. Not many places make those. I will definitely have to try them(maybe for lunch today). Pascha is almost like an Iraqi haggis. Uncle's on Devon also serves it on weekends.

d4v3 wrote:The dishes you named sound Assyrian.

Unless I'm missing something here--entirely possible--isn't what is called Assyria part of what is currently known as Iraq?

Either way, it sounds very interesting and I look forward to getting over and trying some of the food. Thanks for the report!

Gypsy Boy wrote:Unless I'm missing something here--entirely possible--isn't what is called Assyria part of what is currently known as Iraq?

Yes, that's correct. IIRC, "Assyrian" is a cultural designation, but there isn't a cuisine specific to it, as such.

While I have no dog in the fight, I think many would argue "Iraq" is a political designation without a particular cuisine, whereas Assyrian as an ancient ethnic/cultural designation is defined, in part, by its foods (as are many or most cultures/ethnicities). As Chicago is one of the centers of the Assyrian diaspora, someone from that community might weigh in better.

FYI, here's a link to their menu:


Danny's Restaurant menu

I used Iraqi to refer to the food because that was the term they used on their menu - and maybe it was on the storefront window too, though I might be imagining that. I'm eager to hear what other folks think when they try it.

The site claims they are a "Mediterranean" place. So, who knows.

Assyrians are Christians originally from (what is now) Northern Iraq, they are culturally and (of course) religiously very different from Iraqi Muslims. The country of Iraq itself was an artificial political construct invented by the British grouping together people of disparate cultures, ethnicities, languages and religions. While most Assyrians hail from Iraq, they generally refer to themselves as Assyrian and not Iraqi. They even have their own national flag. They do share some dishes in common with their Iraqi country-mates, but usually with some twist to them, some of their dishes are uniquely Assyrian. Interestingly, many Assyrian restaurants call their food "Mediteranean', such as Andie's (which is owned by Assyrians) and Larsa's. That may be because many Assyrians made their way here via Lebanon.

Danny's is now Milo's Pita Place, which, judging from its menu, is also an Assyrian restaurant despite its similar claim of "fine Mediterranean cuisine."

Milo's Pita Place
6310 N. Western Avenue
Chicago, IL 60659
(773) 293-6593
http://milospitaplace-mshaer.blogspot.com/

As dv43 explains (and as I've learned from my Assyrian DH, Sweet Baboo) there is a lot in common between Assyrian cuisine and cuisines traditionally identified as Mediterranean, such as Greek. This web page describes Assyrian cuisine as Middle Eastern and Mediterranean.

Katie wrote:As dv43 explains (and as I've learned from my Assyrian DH, Sweet Baboo) there is a lot in common between Assyrian cuisine and cuisines traditionally identified as Mediterranean, such as Greek. This web page describes Assyrian cuisine as Middle Eastern and Mediterranean.

I do understand, but I don't understand why, in West Rogers Park where so many Assyrians live, restaurants cannot advertise themselves as Assyrian.

Just a guess, but maybe the local Assyrians already know Danny's is Assyrian, and "Mediterranean" sounds more approachable to the non-Assyrian.

Now that you mention it, I cannot think of a single Assyrian restaurant that refers to itself as such (although they almost always proudly display an Assyrian flag or incorporate it into their logo). Perhaps it is that Americans often confuse Syria and Assyria. It may be as some have mentioned, Assyrian food is closer to "Mediterranean" than the all-encompassing "Middle-Eastern" designation. Perhaps, because they are Christians, they do not wish to be identified with Muslim dominated areas. I do think that in Chicago, especially with such a huge Assyrian population (the world headquarters of the Assyrian church in exile is in Chicago), we are saavy enough to understand the differences.

I've asked Sweet Baboo these questions, and here are his answers. Assyrian restaurants and grocers do not blatantly advertise themselves as such because they do not want to alienate their Persian clientele. Although Chicago is the home of the Assyrian Church of the East* and does have a large Assyrian population (the largest in the world, if I'm not mistaken, outside of Iraq), the Persian population is in fact larger, and makes up the great majority of the customer base of such businesses.

Assyrians are not only the cultural and religious minority of the Mesopotamian region, they have traditionally been the socioeconomic underclass as well. In Greektown and in other areas of Chicago where "Mediterranean/Middle Eastern" restaurants are located, often it is Persians (if not Greeks, Armenians, or Turks) who are the owners and front-of-house staff; the Assyrians are the dishwashers and car parkers. (This I can attest to from personal experience; my husband always finds people to talk with in Assyrian working outside such restaurants; he lets me know that the staff are speaking Farsi when we go inside.) Recently, he says, Assyrians in the Chicago area have made gains in income levels relative to Persians, but they are still considered the underclass.

Though the term "Iraqi" to describe a restaurant or grocer really sets his teeth on edge (almost as much as people confusing Assyrians with Syrians), he says it'll be a long time before you see an Assyrian restaurant or grocer advertising himself as such. The terms "Mediterranean" and "Middle Eastern" are more palatable to the full range of these businesses' clientele.


*Edited to change "an Eastern rite of" to "an Eastern church in communion with" but, another long story, not food related, so never mind.

Katie wrote:I've asked Sweet Baboo these questions, and here are his answers. Assyrian restaurants and grocers do not blatantly advertise themselves as such because they do not want to alienate their Persian clientele. Although Chicago is the home of the Assyrian Church of the East (an Eastern rite of the Catholic Church) and does have a large Assyrian population (the largest in the world, if I'm not mistaken, outside of Iraq), the Persian population is in fact larger, and makes up the great majority of the customer base of such businesses.

Assyrians are not only the cultural and religious minority of the Mesopotamian region, they have traditionally been the socioeconomic underclass as well. In Greektown and in other areas of Chicago where "Mediterranean/Middle Eastern" restaurants are located, often it is Persians (if not Greeks, Armenians, or Turks) who are the owners and front-of-house staff; the Assyrians are the dishwashers and car parkers. (This I can attest to from personal experience; my husband always finds people to talk with in Assyrian working outside such restaurants; he lets me know that the staff are speaking Farsi when we go inside.) Recently, he says, Assyrians in the Chicago area have made gains in income levels relative to Persians, but they are still considered the underclass.

Though the term "Iraqi" to describe a restaurant or grocer really sets his teeth on edge (almost as much as people confusing Assyrians with Syrians), he says it'll be a long time before you see an Assyrian restaurant or grocer advertising himself as such. The terms "Mediterranean" and "Middle Eastern" are more palatable to the full range of these businesses' clientele.

Thanks, Katie and SB, for this very informative answer!

Yes, thank you Katie and SB for such an informative post. I am totally surprised that Assyrians are considered the "underclass" in that part of the world. In my experience, Assyrians are very proud of their ancient Babylonian heritage. They are extremely warm and friendly people and seem very eager to share their culture and cuisine with outsiders. I for one, purposely seek out Assyrian restaurants among the plethora of "middle-eastern" restaurants. The reluctance to label an establishment as "Assyrian" makes this more difficult. I always keep an eye out for the omnipresent Assyrian flag which is always subtly incorporated into the decor or logo. I wish more Assyrian restaurants would serve native Assyrian dishes rather than generic middle-eastern fare. Real Assyrian cuisine is more complex, flavorful and interesting than the generic kabobs and houmus one finds at most middle-eastern places. That is one reason I am a big fan of Sahara Kebab (fka Big Buns and Pita), who often serve Assyrian specialties that one cannot find elsewhere. I really hope that Assyrians find the freedom and acceptance here in Chicago to openly proclaim their establishments as their own without fear of losing patrons. I welcome the influx of the Assyrian culture into our community.

Suzy Creamcheese wrote:

Gypsy Boy wrote:Unless I'm missing something here--entirely possible--isn't what is called Assyria part of what is currently known as Iraq?

Yes, that's correct. IIRC, "Assyrian" is a cultural designation, but there isn't a cuisine specific to it, as such.

Oooh, my Assyrian friends would vigorously disagree with you.

Mine too.

Well then, what is Assyrian cuisine? All I know about Assyrians is that they invented procrastination.

Suzy Creamcheese wrote:Well then, what is Assyrian cuisine? All I know about Assyrians is that they invented procrastination.

I'll tell you later.

HA!

Seriously, though, here are some typical recipes.