Pancetta, Northbrook

Chcago Magazine's Dish wrote:Continuing Hotel Revamp Week at Dish, in the north suburbs, the American bistro Rooks Corner in the Renaissance Chicago North Shore Hotel will metamorphose into the Italian restaurant Pancetta (Renaissance Chicago North Shore Hotel, 933 Skokie Valley Blvd., Northbrook, 847-897-5501) on or about August 1. “We’re trying to make it a standalone in the hotel,” says Chris Dugenske, the chef, meaning that the restaurant will function more like nearby independents, such as Francesco’s Hole in the Wall and Prairie Grass Cafe, than a hotel restaurant.

Tried it Sunday night. Just off the lobby. Definitely feels like a hotel coffee shop remade to try and be a little more upscale.

The food was pretty good. The service, well, they have a long way to go if they want to be considered in the same class as Prairie Grass or Francesco's.

Initially, they were confused over whether we could be seated in the dining room, or whether we'd have to be accommodated in the bar/lobby lounge. There was another group of about ten in the restaurant portion, and initially they said it was a private party. There were only three of us, and there were many empty tables in the restaurant area, so after telling us that we'd have to find someplace to eat in the lounge (really made for drinking and snacks, not for dining), they changed their mind and decided we could eat in the restaurant area after all.

We ordered appetizers and entrees. I was surprised when the entrees came out first. I asked if it was their policy to serve appetizers after entrees - the response - "We have a new chef. Your appetizers weren't ready yet." The server offered to keep our entrees warmed while we waited for them to complete the appetizers. We told them to just go ahead and bring out whatever was ready when it was ready. To their credit, they comped one of the appetizers.

The cedar-planked Salmon, topped with a bit of crab, was good, perfectly cooked, although from the burnt/charred appearance, it was clear the planks had been re-used many times. My crab linguini was a bit overpowered with spicy red pepper flakes.

Getting the attention of someone to get a bill, and then getting someone to take our payment - both were significant challenges.

So, the food itself might make it a slight bit better than a typical hotel restaurant ... if they could only get the service issues resolved.