Guildhall Restaurant & Bar in Glencoe

Guildhall opened about a week ago. It's the join venture of two Glencoe residents, one a hedge fund manager and one the creator of Home-Baked Pizza. For those old timers in the area, it's in the old Weineke's Hardware store.

Inside is a large, contemporary space. What I really liked was that, while it wasn't hushed and had a lively feel, it was very conversation friendly. My only nitpick would be that the tables are a bit close.

I started with a Gin & Tonic. The cocktail menu focuses on classic stuff. I liked mine a lot, but I'm not cocktail expert. They also provide a very nice bread with a compound butter of some kind. I recall reading an interview with the owners where they made a point of saying that the place would be down to earth as illustrated by the fact that there would be bread on the table.

Our dishes (all of which are appetizers):
Crudo: The best dish of the night, some excellent Hamachi in a pool of slightly spicy citrus, with some cilantro and radish. The perfect balance of sweet fish, citrus and spice.
Burrata with house made giardiniera. I really liked the burrata and the giardiniera. I'm not sure they went together, as the giardiniera was a bit strong for a mild cheese, but I ate every bite.
Oysters Rockefeller: An excellent rendition. My frequent quarrel with this dish is when is slathered in cheese. These tasted of creamed spinach and oyster, just as it should.
Tarte Flambee Traditional: Just creme fraiche, onion and bacon on top. Simple but with big flavor, although I'd like the crust a bit crispier, I'd easily have this again.
My wife had a chocolate dessert of some kind that was just so so.

Service was excellent. I asked for an after dinner drink they were out of, and when I changed to a more expensive one, they charged the lower price. The above was a lot of food (by my standards) and came it around $80 before tip, which I though quite reasonable.

All in all, a very enjoyable experience. Glencoe, however, has teased me before (I've lived here over 20 years) with good restaurants only to find that the community does not adequately support it. Just as Moderno in Highland Park had to convert to Royce, I can only hope that this restaurant can stay and thrive in it's current form without having to dumb down it's offerings.

Jonah

Guildhall Restaurant & Bar
694 Vernon Ave.
Glencoe, Ill.

I had a second meal here that showed even more promise. We had a truly fantastic pasta dish described as "housemade ricotta cavatelli, Spinach, Lemon, Hickory Nuts, Parmesan." The pasta was lightly sauced with an intense spinach puree, accented with lemon, topped with a few bits of crunchy nuts.

Jonah

I've been to Guildhall a couple of times and I've really enjoyed my visits. For me, one highlight is the bar, which is run by Violet Hour alum Kyle Davidson. Kyle's cocktail menu is solid and the spirit selection is thoughtfully curated. For those who do not know, Kyle is the creator of a very well-known cocktail called The Art of Choke (light rum, Cynar, lime juice, demerara, Chartreuse, mint), which was featured in 2009's seminal and now infamous Rogue Cocktails book. It was a genuine bar-goer moment for me to have Kyle prepare his famous cocktail for me. I've made it for myself before but to have it prepared by its creator, as intended, was an enlightening experience, to say the least. Ironically, it's not on the menu at Guildhall but everything needed to make it is stocked there and, if Kyle is around, I'm guessing he'll be glad to make one for anyone who asks. But beyond that, solid renditions of Old Fashioneds (the one on the menu uses Buffalo Trace and I had one with Wild Turkey Rare Breed) and Barrel-Aged Manhattans are on the menu, and they're worth an order, too. I thought the Brandy Julep (brandy, pineapple, mint) was also a great riff on the old classic.

On my first visit, the only food I had was a dozen oysters. They tasted great and were ultra-fresh -- I never even touched the accoutrements with which they were served -- but unfortunately, had not been shucked very skillfully. There were lots of pieces of shell and all dozen oysters were completely devoid of any liquor. I'm not sure I'd order them again.

On my second visit I was with a couple friends, one of whom was recognized by one of the servers. That server sent out for us the Tarte Flambe Forestiere (Wild Mushrooms, Gruyere, Crème Fraîche, Onion, Nueske’s Lardons), which was in a word, awesome. I loved the way the flavors and textures of the toppings combined into something far greater than the sum of their parts. The meatiness and earthiness of those mushrooms was sensational. We also had a few other dishes, most all of which we loved. A well-curated Charcuterie Plate (coppa, prosciutto and nduja) was a great foil for our cocktails. The Fritto Misto, a tasty combination of nicely fried rock shrimp, calamari and sunburst squash slices -- served with a lemon aioli -- was also very satisfying. Imported Burratta with Housemade Giardiniera was excellent, with the creamy-fresh cheese and mildly spicy giardiniera complementing each other perfectly. The daily Crudo selection (cannot recall the fish) was also very respectable. The fish was meaty, tender and fresh, and not overshadowed by the yuzu, granny smith apple and jalapeno served with it. For me, the only miss on this visit was a very fresh piece of fish, which was cooked perfectly -- moist and flaky -- but was a bit underseasoned.

I'm really struck by how distinctive the beverage and food are here and I hope that Guildhall maintains its commitment to this level of creativity. My concern is that, perhaps, the fare is too 'out there' for the local crowd and that the menu will eventually change to meet the demands of the regulars. Of course, that would be entirely fine and understandable from a business perspective but it would also make the place far less interesting as a dining destination. Still, with roasted chicken, 2 types of fish, 2 kinds of steak and a burger on the dinner menu -- there should be something to please just about everyone, even if the specific preparations of those items go beyond what one might typically define as safe. Here's hoping Guildhall makes and maintains its mark.

=R=

I've been back to Guildhall a few times since my last post and I enjoy it more and more with each visit. I'm a bit sad (though, very happy for him) that Kyle Davidson is leaving to take over the bar at Blackbird but Bar Manager Don Hernandez is an affable guy and he definitely has the knowledge and skill to keep the bar going strong. I look forward to seeing how he puts his personal touch on things going forward.

But talking about the bar first is kind of burying the lead because chef Ragano's food is outstanding and destination-worthy. It's thoughtful, delicious and exciting. At our most recent trip -- shortly after the new menu had been rolled out -- my wife and I had dinner at the bar (Kyle took care of us on this night) with another couple, sharing a bunch of items (including a series of Kyle's phenomenal dealer's choice cocktails) and it was just hit after hit. The Tarte Flambe Forestiere (described upthread), cooked in the wood-burning oven is just sensational in every way. It's aromatic, flavorful and texturally satisfying. A gratis order of Grilled Pork Belly with pickled nectarines, dandelion green salad and nectarine mostarda was much more than the sum of its parts. The belly, a Danish variety which was especially meaty (about 50/50 meat to fat), was cooked en sous vide for 8 hours, then sliced into a generous slab and grilled over wood. Fabulous. A Compressed Melon and Cucumber Panzanella Salad (iceberg, torn baguette, red onion, pickled jalapeno and lime dijon vinaigrette) struck a perfect balance between tart, rich, sweet and spicy. The flavors were explosive but the textures alone were sensational. Sorry wedge salad but I cannot recall a better use of iceberg lettuce . . . ever. The Smoked Trout Lyonnaise Salad (house-smoked trout, frisee, mustard greens, honeycrisp apple, poached egg) was another winner, which riffed on a salad I've had at a few other places but elevated it to a new level via the expertly prepared components.

A couple of pastas were also exceptional. Spaghetti Pomodoro (heirloom cherry tomatoes, basil, garlic, pecorino romano) was simple perfection with perfectly al dente noodles and bright flavors accentuating it. Housemade Orechietti (fennel sausage, broccoli rabe, lemon, parmesan) was a textbook study in balance, with the tart lemon and bitter rabe matching up beautifully in service to the chewy orechietti, and rich sausage and cheese.

Steak Frites (prime flat iron, compound butter, shallot jam, hand-cut pommes frites) and Bone-In Compart Family Farms Pork Chop (farro, marcona almonds, whole grain mustard, heirloom carrots) rounded out our meal wonderfully. The steak was tasty and cooked perfectly to medium-rare with a nice exterior crust, and the fries were crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and flavorful. The pork chop was moist -- seemingly well marbled -- and really tasted like pork. I loved the mustardy farro, which went just perfectly with the juicy chop. A couple of side dishes were also excellent: Roasted Shishito Peppers (parmesan, lemon, herbs) and Wood Oven Creamed Spinach (pernod).

This is some of the most thoughtful, exciting fare currently available in the northern suburbs and it also compares more than favorably to many popular spots in the city. The quality and variety of ingredients at Guildhall sets it apart from many places I've eaten up north but it's the creative touches applied to the dishes in which they're used -- and the expert manner in which those dishes are executed -- that makes Guildhall a destination.

=R=

Burrata Caprese nice but the tomato was sup-par for the season

Peektoe crab salad on toast was well loved

simple pasta with a marinara sauce was OK but we all agreed that the pasta was a bit tough (not al dente, tough…)

Fried Shrimp Po boy delicious! the Celery root remoulade was great

salmon was fine, wife liked the salad and the chickpeas "two ways"

seasonal crisp was very nice but maybe a bit heavy on the basil for my tastes


Overall, a very nice dinner would be happy to dine there again.

Went tonight for our 22d wedding anniversary and basically left puzzled.

7:00 reservation was honored, there was a decent crowd at that hour. The feature cocktail was sold out. Staff was very attentive to refilling our water glasses. The peeky toe crab was great, fried calamari was ok, not piping hot. My husband had steak frites, I had the Guildhall burger. Both our fries were served warm but not piping hot. They replaced those immediately and the hot ones were great. He thought the steak was ok, not bad but not great. I loved the burger, not sure I like the $16 price for a burger but it was delicious. They graciously brought us a brownie with ice cream (and a candle) for our anniversary. We each had one bottled beer.

There were a significant number of children from ages about 4 and up. The littlest ones at the table nextto us were a bit noisy though not terribly disruptive. Chef knew their dad and he came out to their table several times. He did not acknowledge us with a nod, glance, it was kinda weird. Our server was pleasant, our biggest service complaint was how long they left our dirty plates on the table after we completed each course. Filled our water but left the dirties in front of us for several long minutes.

My husband said he'd go back if some friends wanted to but wouldn't suggest it as an option if we had to decide on a place.

sujormik, I get everything about your post except the "puzzled" part. I get that you liked some things about the food and not others. I'm not sure I would have expected the Chef to acknowledge me just because he came out to talk to a friend, but maybe that's just me. I get that you would have preferred not to have small children in the restaurant. I get that the bussing staff left empty plates on the table too long for your preference. But I don't get why you're puzzled.

Are you puzzled because you don't understand why some others are high on the place? Are you puzzled because you think the restaurant goes off the rails in ways you don't understand? I'm interested in going to this place, so I'd appreciate more elucidation not on the what's-good-and-what's-bad part, but on what puzzles you about it.

P.S. Happy Anniversary!

Hey riddlemay,
I guess my puzzlement was based mostly on the continuing glowing reviews I've seen and we just found it ok. It seems like it has the makings of a really good spot but the lapses..in several areas including service and food prep.. Seemed out of character I suppose. Maybe puzzled was the wrong word, but disappointed was too harsh and I think I use underwhelmed a lot on here.

As I find is common for us, I read about places (often right here on lth) and get excited totry them, and only infrequently do they seem to live up to the praise. Then I'm disappointed to have suggested them say to another couple or even just my family. We have far more limited dining resources than many of the people on lth so when we try someplace new I just really want to like it

As for the chef, I guess I feel like when he comes out to the same table a few times it would behoove him to acknowledge other diners with a nod...he is the owner after all. Didnt make me dislike him or anything, nor would it be relevant to whether I'd return. I suspect if he HAD smiled, nodded, waved, whatever, I'd be MORE inclined to return, if that makes any sense.

And thanks! Our wedding was a Sunday night so the weekend was very reminiscent.

Thanks for fleshing that out, sujormik. I thought maybe that's what you meant but I really wasn't sure.

By the way, when you say

As I find is common for us, I read about places (often right here on lth) and get excited to try them, and only infrequently do they seem to live up to the praise. Then I'm disappointed to have suggested them say to another couple or even just my family.

you strike a chord. There are LTH-praised places that I've felt lived up to their LTH press, but it's a close call whether they exceed the number of places that I've felt haven't.

riddlemay wrote:Thanks for fleshing that out, sujormik. I thought maybe that's what you meant but I really wasn't sure.

By the way, when you say

As I find is common for us, I read about places (often right here on lth) and get excited to try them, and only infrequently do they seem to live up to the praise. Then I'm disappointed to have suggested them say to another couple or even just my family.

you strike a chord. There are LTH-praised places that I've felt lived up to their LTH press, but it's a close call whether they exceed the number of places that I've felt haven't.

LOL, there's no accounting for taste!

=R=

Actually, I was thinking it's almost entirely predictable from a statistical point of view. With any given 100 restaurants, it's practically inevitable that any given person will like 50 of them more than the consensus and 50 of them less than the consensus.

riddlemay wrote::)

Actually, I was thinking it's almost entirely predictable from a statistical point of view. With any given 100 restaurants, it's practically inevitable that any given person will like 50 of them more than the consensus and 50 of them less than the consensus.

Hehe, I think you're right. With so many different people posting their opinions here, even the most favored places are not universally loved, and I'm truly grateful for that. But I do tend to most often "follow" the advice of folks with whom I usually agree. After you spend enough time here, you get a sense of whose opinions most often line up with your own. I'll certainly try places that are recommended by anyone here if they look/sound interesting but there are certain people whose opinions I know are more in sync with mine.

I've been one of the biggest fans of Guildhall here at LTH. I'm truly sorry if anyone who went there based on what I've posted here didn't enjoy it as much as I have over my several visits. For me, I've been thinking about it a lot lately and definitely need to get back there soon.

=R=

I'm looking forward to my first visit.

riddlemay wrote:I'm looking forward to my first visit.

Personally, I really like sitting at the bar, having round or 2 and then eating dinner there, too. I guess it should go without saying that your mileage may vary.

=R=

I think it's a good call not just to consider the opinions of those whom you line up with here but also their tips on what to order, when to go, who to get drinks from, etc. Just reading a post and thinking the place sounds good, then going at a totally different time (poster goes at 5;00 on a Wednesday but you go at 8:00 on a Saturday) and ordering totally different things will lead to different results. Not to say that the place shouldn't be consistent or that you aren't 100% justified in being bummed that you didn't enjoy the experience but just that this could be the reason--not that the recommendations on here didn't have validity.

I kinda figured there would be more families on a Sunday than a Saturday night, I was a little surprised how many had their kids out pretty late for a "school night."

Ronnie I'd read about it other places too...I highly value your opinions because you back them up! And I really don't want to diss the place at all, I wish Northbrook had something similar as our restaurant scene is sickly at best!

Anyway, I try to at least be clear about where I'm coming from when I do review places on here...and my husband is NOT a foodie so I take that into account when I choose/review places as well. I remain a huge fan of lth forum!

I have to agree with sujormik's opinion of Guildhall. I had heard and read so many glowing reviews of it that I couldn't wait to try it. Since I could never get a reservation, I was told on the phone that there is seating at the bar on a first come basis. We got there around 5:30 on a Saturday and were able to get one of the two tops adjacent to the wall separating the bar from the restaurant. I had the "famous" roast chicken and my husband had the Bouillabaisse. The chicken had a nice flavor but, as was the case with the Bouillabaisse, the portion was extremely small especially for the price. We both left the restaurant still hungry. The restaurant is striving for the River North restaurant scene with the high noise factor where you cannot have a conversation, small portions and high prices. Based on the younger patrons that were there on our visit I guess they are succeeding. We won't be back however.

I had another very enjoyable session over at Guildhall last Friday. I arrived at 5 pm -- right when they opened -- and sat at the bar with my wife. We had a few excellent Dealer's Choice cocktails from Don, who has taken over the bar splendidly from Kyle. I had an improved whiskey sour with very pleasant, pronounced notes of expressed lemon and orange oil. We also tried a cucumber martini, which is not normally our thing. I have to say I really enjoyed the few sips I had of it, especially because it was a very savory drink. Don mentioned that they were working on some new drinks and that a new cocktail menu was a week or 2 out. Over the couple hours we were there, the place filled up around us. We ended up chatting with another couple who was sitting next to us at the bar. They were very enthusiastic about food, cooking and Chicago dining. It was fun comparing notes about places we'd been and wanted to try.

Foodwise, we shared a couple of outstanding dishes. One was a perfectly blistered, charred and crispy-crusted Tarte Flambe with mascarpone, gorgonzola, red onion, speck, arugula, roasted mission figs and 25-year balsamic. This was a great combination of flavors and textures, and the crust was stellar. Chef mentioned that he's worked hard to let his crew know that the edges need to be a little burnt up. He's clearly succeeded because this was really nicely cooked. The other dish we had was a Skate Wing, which was golden brown with a light crust on the outside and moist and flakey inside. It was garnished with a relish comprised of golden raisins, pine nuts, parsley, extra virgin olive oil and capers, along with grilled lemon slices, sunchoke puree and drops of balsamic vinegar. I'd order both dishes again in a heartbeat.

I really enjoy hanging out here. It's a very pleasant spot with quality food and drink, and enthusiastic, friendly service. It's hard to ask for more, especially for a place so close to home, which feels a lot more like a spot in the city than a north-suburban place.

=R=