I've been a fan of mussels since I was a little kid. My grandfather, who grew up digging and eating mussels and clams in Massachusetts, introduced me to them. They were one of the first things she-who-is-my-wife and I bonded over when we started dating. So, I have to say I've been disappointed numerous times in recent years with mussels in Chicago--over-cooked, undersized, too many unopened bivalves. Even the Gage's, which were supposed to be so awesome, really left me saying "meh."
Then, I ate at the Publican for the first time last week, and the heavens opened, and the copper pot of the gods landed on our table bearing the best mussels I've had in years! They are cooked in gueuze (a blended Belgian lambic), and were perfect. Cooked until just the right moment, large, plump, tender, not a bit of grit, not a single dud in the bunch. I am hoping to go again this weekend.