Adding to the growing list of formerly unrepresented cuisines now available for your delectation, Chicagoland now has (as far as I can tell) its first restaurant that bills itself as serving Mongolian food. For some reason, it is in Evanston. Also for some reason, it is called "The Funky Monk".
Now before you drop everything and furiously program Evanston into your GPS, visions of spicy lamb hot pot swirling in your head, keep in mind this isn't *Inner* Mongolian food. Think Russian, not Uyghur.
In fact, anyone acquainted with Russian food and especially the approximately 30,000 Kyrgyz/Uzbek/Kazakh/etc. places that have opened here in the past five years or so, will find much that is familiar. So, there's borscht. And pel'meni (doubtless called something else in Mongolia, and allegedly lamb-filled, but I'm skeptical).
Approximately half of the small menu is devoted to the category of stuffed pasta or pastry, whether steamed (manti-like dumplings and baozi), baked (samsy), or deep-fried (chebureki, pirozhki, belyashi). Most of these have the same beef filling, although
inauthentically, there are some vegetarian options. (Authentically, however, the beef is chopped, not ground. Those who haven't had samsy before may be surprised that the filling has a bit more chew than one might expect.) Hey, if you like this stuff, you like this stuff. These are all good, and I don't think belyashi are that easy to find around these parts.
The rest of the menu is soups, most containing either house-made noodles or else the aforementioned pel'meni, their relatively bland broths considerably enlivened by copious chunks of fatty lamb. The most unusual of these is the one item here that I'm pretty sure you won't find anywhere else in town (I've certainly never had it before): Milk tea with dumplings. Here, the pel'meni float in a "broth" made from steeping a bit of tea in milk and water. The tea is not very prominent, to be honest, so that basically you are eating dumplings in hot milk. Because of that, this is a very filling dish; I would suggest sharing.
Prices are reasonable, although certainly higher than at the cabbie places. But a cheburek paired with a carrot salad (made, I would guess, by combining equal parts carrot and garlic) makes for a nice lunch for about $7. My main question is one of viability: this place opened on the site of the late, lamented (by me) Aguas Tortas, which in turn took over from the late, lamented (by no one) Uber Burger. Both of those offered cheaper, much more familiar food -- if they couldn't make it, what makes these guys think they have a shot in a town with conservative tastes and notoriously high rents? Maybe they expect a horde of countrymen to enroll at Northwestern, I don't know. I am rooting for them to succeed, though.
618 1/2 Church St.
(847) 859-6915
Last edited by
cilantro on September 1st, 2015, 2:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.