Are you sitting down? You're going to be absolutely shocked by what I'm about to tell you: there is another "gourmet" taco place in Wicker Park. (Beat.) This one, the first US locale of a Tijuana mini-chain, specializes in seafood tacos, which is nice. Good fish tacos are still exceedingly rare in this town.
And they still are.
Kokopelli and its newfangled ilk are not essentialists: not content with meat, salt, and acid, they see tacos as a kind of bludgeon or splatter painting. The pibil, in addition to achiote/sour orange marinadae, comes with vegetables, pickled onions, and salsa, the the shrimp taco is marinated in adobo and includes grilled pineapple, pickled onions, and salsa; both--as with the rest of the lineup--are positively obliterated by the addition of mozzarella cheese, which turns the thing into tube-ready glop. You get a lot of creamy and sweet, but the primal joys of meat and heat are absent, lost to the ooze. I don't know if the kitchen accepts modifications--at present, the tacos, which come in orders of three, cannot be mixed and matched--but I would strongly suggest asking for the cheese to be left off and some of the ancillary ingredients to be put on the side so you can create some harmony in the shells.
Traditional guac was good; the market guac, essentially a salad of avo, tomato, and mozzarella, was not. Leave me out of whatever market they're going to in November for tomatoes, you know?
1324 N. Milwaukee
Chicago, IL 60622
(773) 698-7670
http://www.kokopellichicago.com