Looking for Mexican specialties from days past........

I'm looking for a place (places) that serves some dishes that I've never found on any menus. These are dishes I remember eating as a child but never learned how to prepare.

1) Mananitas de puerco en huevo - Pig feet that have been cooked to tenderness, then dipped in whipped egg batter and fried. Served in a mild red chile sauce with nopalitos (cactus).

2) Tortas de camarron - Deep fried shrimp cakes, but tortas that don't spell like an old fish carcass.

3) Albondigas - this was a soup my grandmother used to make. It had meatballs, rice, potatoes and carrots, I think.

Hi O de M,

Amanecer Tapatio in Joliet often has albondigas as one of their daily specials. Here's one of the threads on this great Jaliscan restaurant:

http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=817

I know that tortitas de camaron are a Friday special at a lot of places during Lent, but I must admit the ones I've tried haven't overwhelmed me. If you find a good source, please publicize it!

What part of Mexico was your grandmother from?

Amata

The tortitas de camarones are fairly common around here during lent. Traspasadas, multiple locations, has the shrimp egg-foo-young style patties with nopales. I've not seen them other times of the year.

orgullodemexico wrote:I'm looking for a place (places) that serves some dishes that I've never found on any menus. These are dishes I remember eating as a child but never learned how to prepare.

OdM:

I'm curious about what part of Mexico your family is originally from, for in knowing that, it might be the case that I or others know of a place that specialises in the cuisine of your family's region of origin. They might occasionally offer -- or may offer with some prodding -- dishes that aren't typically on their menu or those of other restaurants.

Some notes on the specific dishes you mention:

1) Mananitas de puerco en huevo - Pig feet that have been cooked to tenderness, then dipped in whipped egg batter and fried. Served in a mild red chile sauce with nopalitos (cactus).

This dish I have not ever seen on offer but it sounds great. Low calorie too, eh?

2) Tortas de camarron - Deep fried shrimp cakes, but tortas that don't spell like an old fish carcass.

Well, the description of what you don't want sounds like the tortas de camarón -- made from the dry shrimp -- that one finds in most places on Fridays during Lent. Do you mean a different sort of torta de camarón, made with fresh shrimp? I know they make such tortas -- or perhaps one should think in terms of the tortilla española, thus an 'omelette' -- in some parts of Mexico but I haven't seen them offered here. Perhaps Islas las Marias does or at least would make that?

3) Albondigas - this was a soup my grandmother used to make. It had meatballs, rice, potatoes and carrots, I think.

Ah, in considering this I am filled with sadness. I was very fond of the albóndigas that they made at Polo on 18th Street. Very simple and very satisfying. But alas, Polo is no more.

If you're down Joliet way and it's one of the daily specials, Amanecer Tapatio (written up in detail on LTH) serves an excellent bowl of broth with albóndigas with carrots and potatoes.

Again, I'm curious to know what regional cuisine you grew up with. That might help, but -- though I may be risking stirring up controversy in saying this -- I am in a general way very struck by and bored with the monotony of the offerings of the vast majority of Mexican restaurants in Chicago. Generally speaking, the most interesting dishes one finds in places run by recent immigrants who haven't given themselves completely over yet to the expectations of American and/or Americanised audiences.

Antonius

Antonius wrote:I am in a general way very struck by and bored with the monotony of the offerings of the vast majority of Mexican restaurants in Chicago. Generally speaking, the most interesting dishes one finds in places run by recent immigrants who haven't given themselves over yet to the expectations of American and/or Americanised audiences.

A,

Yes, there is a weary sameness to many Mexican joints, whether their sign says Jalisco, Michoacan, or whatever, you can count on carne asada, burritos and, often, nachos. Not that there's anything wrong with any of that, but if you're searching for some unusual authenticity, you may have to search for a while...which is exactly what I'm doing.

Hammond

Way out here in the Western burbs ByBys in West Chicago frequently has albondingas as a daily special. I believe the owners are from Oaxaca and serve some corresponding specialties such as Oaxacan style tamals, tlacoyos (sp?), huitlacoche quesadillas, and flor de calabaza quesadillas. Not sure if the last two are indigenious to Oaxaca actually. I've also seen specials of birria de chivo and res with consomme (plenty of funky organ meats (liver i think) in the consomme, sopa de fideos, pambazos with chorizo and potatoes, and plenty of offerings with nopales. They make a nice cup of champurrado in the winter moths as well. This is a small place with only a few tables and definite hole in the wall atmosphere, but it's a nice family run operation and the food is consistently flavorfull. It's been written about here and on leffhound as well several times.

Byby's
142 W Washington St, West Chicago, IL
Phone: (630) 562-1710

electric mullet wrote:huitlacoche quesadillas, and flor de calabaza quesadillas. Not sure if the last two are indigenious to Oaxaca actually.

Determining if an item is indigenous is a fascinating and vexing challenge. I've seen pozole, for instance, attributed to Jalisco, Michoacan, and Guerrero, and it's probably claimed by other Mexican states/regions as well. It's generally accepted, I think, that birria is "most typical" of Jalisco, and that carnitas are "most typical" of Michoacan, but I can't imagine how you would locate huitlacoche quesadillas anywhere in particular; my guess is that corn smut tacos were enjoyed by Mayans and others long before Spain arrived and named their places of habitation.

This challenge is similar to distinguishing, say, Michigan cuisine and Minnesota cuisine. There are differences, but many so slight as to defy productive distinctions.

Hammond

All

Thank you all for your responses.

My paternal grandparents are from Salamanca, GTO and my maternal grandparents are from Panindicuaro, Michoacan.

TORTAS

The tortas I recall were from shrimp powder. I believe there is a difference nowadays in the process of the powder. Nowadays I think they grind everything, tail, shell and meat - hence the odor. Back in the day, the shrimp powder was just the shrimp meat. I will have to wait for the Cuaresma.

I will also seek out Amanecer Tapatio as that place isn't all that far for me.

I love tacos, tortas, sopes y todo - but sometimes I just want to go someplace and have that special dinner that would make me feel as if I'm sitting in grandma's kitchen.

While I have everyone's attention - who has the best home made style tamales de puerco. I like my tamales with the pork finely shredded, not cubes or chunks. My father has some health issues and we've decided not to have our Xmas eve tamale making party.

Thanks Again
ODM

OdM,

Do you recall any specific Michoacan-type dishes prepared by your maternal grandparents?

My favorite pork tamales are available on Maxwell Street -- for price, it's hard to beat the little nameless place between Taylor and Roosevelt, on the east side, usually operated by a mom and daughter, selling two tamales for a buck from coolers. I usually buy a dozen or so.

Hammond

orgullodemexico wrote:My paternal grandparents are from Salamanca, GTO and my maternal grandparents are from Panindicuaro, Michoacan.

ODM:

Do you remember any dishes specifically from Guanajuato that your father's folks made? Incidentally, we have some friends from Guanajuato (Celaya) and their homemade chorizo is the best I've had -- the balance of flavours is perfect, giving subtle complexity rather than one or two flavours that dominate.

The tortas I recall were from shrimp powder. I believe there is a difference nowadays in the process of the powder. Nowadays I think they grind everything, tail, shell and meat - hence the odor. Back in the day, the shrimp powder was just the shrimp meat. I will have to wait for the Cuaresma.

Wow. That's really interesting about the inclusion of the shells, etc. and makes sense. I felt bad about not being able to embrace the tortas de camarón I've had with greater enthusiasm (especially since I usually observe Lent) but now I feel like there must be a version out there -- somewhere in Chicago -- that will speak to me.

Has anyone seen a version of what I mentioned above -- an omelette or frittata or (Spanish sense) tortilla of shrimp (and possibly other mariscos) on offer around here?

I will also seek out Amanecer Tapatio as that place isn't all that far for me.

You must! It's a special place... And very nice albóndigas... For them, you might also want to try Casa de Samuel (link) too... I'm pretty sure they offer them, though I obviously haven't had them there. Nevertheless, it's very good restaurant with an interesting menu and excellent handmade tortillas, and if they do have albóndigas, I would be surprised if they weren't at least 'good' or 'very good'.

While I have everyone's attention - who has the best home made style tamales de puerco. I like my tamales with the pork finely shredded, not cubes or chunks. My father has some health issues and we've decided not to have our Xmas eve tamale making party.

Yes, finely shredded and with a little more filling than most versions that are for sale have, that's what characterised the tamales of our former neighbour... God, they were good...

Some years back, a Mexican-American friend of mine who grew up on the East Side took me to a place down that way for tamales and they were excellent -- perhaps not up to the homemade ones from next-door but close... I'll see if I can find that place again (if it's still in operation).

Antonius

Are you thinking of the tortas de camaron-- made from dried ground little shrimp -- that are served with chile rojo y nopalitos? That's the classic Lenten dish I know. While I can't tell you were to find it already made in the area, I do have a recipe for it, in case you want to make your own.

I love the little albondigas en caldo too, but when I make it, I mix the rice uncooked with the ground meat and let the rice cook in the broth. Is that the way your grandmother made it also?

I learned to cook Mexican food from my husband's family members & my comadres, mostly from Michoacan and Zacatecas. And Diana Kennedy, of course.

The pig's feet cooked like you describe sound really delicious. I like to boil pig skin until it is really soft & then cut it in thin slices & add it to the shredded pork filling for tamales. It gives an added texture to the masa that is indescribably delicious.