Excellent dinner at Osteria via Stato

I've only been there twice previously but enjoyed both meals. As a result of some snafu during one of the previous meals, they over-compensated for my mild complaint with a couple of gift certs. which we used tonight.
Reserved a table for 7. On arrival the table wasn't ready and we had about a 10 min. wait in the bar, which normally would barely register with me, but having my 80 yr. old parents with me, one of whom really has trouble standing for very long, I noticed every minute. However, once we were seated everything was smooth sailing and delicious.
Our waitress was personable and funny without being remotely intrusive, or over-chatty/familiar. She simply came across as a living, breathing, intelligent, individual person who was also very good at giving people the experience LEYE wants customers to have.
I had a question about the wine list. She didn't know the precise answer, didn't fudge or fake it. Excused herself and returned within a minute with the information. She was ready with perfectly accurate answers to every other menu question, always followed up on any request by asking if there was anything else she could do.
In deference to our son's love of pizza and lack of interest in much other adult food, they allowed us to order a pizza from the bar side. When he started to get very hungry before the entrees arrived we asked if the pizza could be brought out sooner. Though we had not asked for this up front, she still apologized for not having asked us how we wanted it. It was not remotely her fault that he couldn't wait, but she made sure that we didn't feel like we were the problem, and she produced the pizza almost immediately, as if by magic.
She was supported throughout by front and back waiters who got everything right, allowing us to sit back and enjoy each other's company. As this was a rare reunion for somewhat frail parents, brother, brother's partner and the 3 of us, it was exactly what we wanted a restaurant to do for us.
Bread basket that came first was perfectly fresh, sourdough. The oil with roasted garlic and just a touch of balsamic that came with it was very good. The garlic cloves somehow absorbed, or at least attracted the vinegar, so that when folded into a piece of bread it had a nice bit of piquancy along with the unctuousness.
House cured olives had great flavor and were not too salty. Fried calamari (the kid's favorite) had great flavor and crunch and was perfectly non-greasy. The side of tomato sauce was bright and fresh.
Pickled beet salad was perfectly balanced with some greens and gorgonzola crumbles.
The kid's plain cheese pizza was a model of cracker crust style. Just enough cheese on top of a shmear of tart, bright tomato to flavor the crust without overwhelming it at all.
Roast chicken was a neat, pretty presentation, looking like a quarter chicken, but boned except for the drumstick. I didn't try it, but it was pronounced excellent.
Seafood stew also looked beautiful and was pronounced swell by my father. I didn't get a bite.
Mrs. B. and bro. were exceptionally happy with their eggplant parm.
Mom had gnocchi in brown butter/sage. I have to say this was perfectly good, but not ethereal. Didn't quite sing to me. I couldn't really taste the sage, though I could see it. Not bad, but less than the rest.
I had the evening's special risotto: mushroom and short rib. It was everything I could have wished for. Rice perfectly done. Deep, concentrated beefy, woodsy flavor. Not too much salt.
The wine was 2010 Paolo Scavino red. (It's all nebbiolo---which was my question to our waitress---but comes from outside the area allowing them to label it a Nebbiolo.) It was a bit closed and thin tasting right out of the bottle, but opened up through the meal, and made a very nice accompaniment to the food.) It was on the list as 2009 and when I mentioned it to her in passing, she immediately wanted to go make sure they didn't still have a bottle of the orig. vintage. I told her not to bother as it was already open and I was pretty sure if they gave her the 2010, it meant the '09 was gone. But what impressed me was that she was ready to assume that it might matter without any extra prompting.
We ordered a la carte, but with the family-style prix fixe at just under $40, this would have to be a really good value, coming with this level of preparation and service.

620 N State St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 642-8450

Anyone been lately?

Hi my wife and I carry out from Via Stato twice a month - and find it consistently excellent.

(For carryout you can get a combination of Pizzeria and Osteria dishes)

Sausage pizza - crisp crust, plentiful sausage
Parmesan crusted onions

Occasionally the veal meatballs. The pan roasted salmon with salsa verde and fennel salad is one of my favorite fish preps in city.

Has been a while since I've eaten in the restaurant. But we really enjoy the food!