The Winchester now serves dinner and after having read/heard a couple of positive thoughts, I visited with friends last night. Well, there were some pluses but dinner was far more flawed.
The restaurant itself is casual, inviting, and with plenty of natural light coming through. But with a packed house, the place is extraordinarily loud and even our server had considerable difficulty hearing us from just a couple of feet away.
The evening began with cocktails, and impressive ones at that. The Hunky Dory (rum-based) was definitely on the sweet side thanks to pineapple, probably too sweet for some, but Campari, orange peel and Japanese chili bitters added offsetting bitter notes that made this a terrific cocktail. Less sweet and equally impressive was the 101 South, featuring smooth reposado tequila, aperol, spiced tangerine syrup, lime, and a little kick from habanero shrub.
Food was less successful. Toasted sourdough with housemade ricotta was better bread service than most places (not sure where Winchester gets its bread). But my Hen of the Woods Lyonnaise salad let me down. Crispy mushrooms and potato chips, as well as a perfectly poached egg, made for a unique and well thought out variation on this ubiquitous bistro salad. Unfortunately, the salad was heavily dressed, and that meant mustard overwhelmed every bite.
I only had a couple of bites of the dry aged beef tartar, but it was not the success I hoped for. The flavors were nice, but served atop a very thick slice of bread (at least twice as thick as it should have been) such that the bread overwhelmed every bite of tartar. Avoid the bread altogether and the tartar just does not come together so well - not a good dilemma.
Great in concept, at least in terms of flavors, but certainly not so much in terms of execution, was the roasted half Slagel chicken, with grilled romaine, rye & farro, lemon. The chicken featured a beautifully crisp skin, I assume from a dry brine. Unfortunately, it seems there was too much salt and that none of it was brushed away as the chicken was a salt bomb. It's a sad thing when you're forced to take crisped chicken skin and put it aside. Sadder when the meat is no less salty. The half chicken was also quite unwieldy, not cut up at all. I could tell that the accompaniments - grilled romaine, rye, farro - were perfect matches, but unfortunately salt from the chicken also somewhat marred these otherwise wonderful additions.
A liege waffle sundae featured hot fudge poured tableside, cherries, and vanilla ice cream atop a liege waffle. I love liege waffles, but here the waffle was the worst part of an otherwise simple but delicious dessert. The waffle was so hard, making it difficult to break it into small pieces, particularly since it was served in a bowl, with a spoon.
On the plus side, service was terrific. Our server was friendly and knowledgeable, and courses were timed perfectly. And the rest of the staff ensured that all other aspects of service were properly executed.
Our evening was largely designed by choosing a restaurant near a bar where we intended to end the evening. I ordinarily wouldn't travel to this area for dinner unless I really wanted to give the food a shot. Given my overall thoughts on the food, I suspect I probably won't return to the Winchester, perhaps even if I'm grabbing a drink at a nearby watering hole.