Wandering around River North early this Sunday, we were driven more by desperation than curiosity to the flickering Open sign (moth-to-the-flame) on Ed Debevic's front door. When this place had first opened under LEYE auspices we had visited occasionally to experience, in its faux-diner atmosphere, the simple, freshly cooked cuisine supposedly found in the typical roadside diner in the days when most interstates were two lanes. What we found this past Sunday was a similar faux-diner/roadhouse-bar atmosphere with a cuisine consisting of, among other things, pasteurized eggs (only scrambled and omelets offered on menu), deep-fried tater tots, reheated sausage patties (pucks?), and watery coffee. Certainly, a suitable destination for any I-57 junkie in need of a Denny's fix (no biscuits and gravy, tho).
"The fork with two prongs is in use in northern Europe. In England, they’re armed with a steel trident, a fork with three prongs. In France we have a fork with four prongs; it’s the height of civilization." Eugene Briffault (1846)