Tonight's tasting menu was dazzling, but light on pastry elements.
Spiaggia's bread opener is from Aya Bakery, 1332 W Grand Ave., Chicago, IL 60642.
An amuse bouche, a tuna crudo, was lemon zest infused, and lively; the accompanying gougere was a thumb-sized croissant like dollop, infused with a truffle cheese.
Lumache e aromatiche is four snails in a breadcrumb and tapenade-like "earth". An edible "eco-environment" for the snails, fresh and mild in flavor.
The foie gras was airy and delicate atop the paw paw cake. This was the richest element on the menu.
Tortellini in brodo was four tortellini in a rabbit consumme, which when you complete the fourth tortellini, the waiter adds a splash of a Monetlpuciano red to the remaining broth, encouraging you to sip the heightened broth right from the bowl. This is worth a Michelin star on its own.
Strangozzi al Tartufo is a thick fetuccini, al dente, with a clear brown butter sauce and ample truffle shavings.
The risotto surprises with an almost puffed rice and slight crunch. The textures here are astounding.
Turbot was bland except for an accompanying toasted seed crumble.
The pheasant featured two slices which were described as "sausage stuffed", although no sausage appeared on the plate or anywhere inside the pheasant. The slices were pitch-perfect pheasant, like a turkey that's been eating truffle its whole life. The carrots were unique in flavor, and a particular variety, although it escapes me at the moment.
Rice fritters were essentially doughnuts on a dark cherry compote, and an almond gelato from a dream.
Service was relaxed but poised, passionately revealing some distinction about each element and its origin. The manager introduced himself at the perfect time when the snails arrived, proudly revealing that his friend owns the snail farm where the snails originated. Each course was like this-- each accompanied a tailored origin story-- you're best friends with the knowledgeable staff here in minutes. They want to talk about the Aya bakery and where it's located near Ogden Avenue. So friendly, so warm, so heightened and high-stakes, it blows away the hard-nosed ice-queen exterior of Smith's servers who would just as soon see you killed than talk about their Veltliner.
Spiaggia's servers deluge you with an avalanche of freebies-- from tastes of Montelcinos to dessert aperitifs. I cried at a couple of the dishes, and asked the server if he enjoyed seeing guests weep, and he responded without missing a beat, "It's what we do."