al's is my life. i was going to the original al's before the circle campus was built. when they had the giardinara on the counter, and a combo was about $2.00. the restuaurant used to be on the other side of the counter where the prep kitchen is now. staffed entirely by old italian women... and chris, the owner. the taylor st. dukes were in the hood and you couldn't find a cappuccino for miles.
i can't vouch for the new ones in the burbs w/valet parking and fondue, but as far as i know, it's a franchise, so they get the recipe w/the payment. what they do w/it is entirely up to them. hopefully, since they're smart enough to want and buy it in the first place, they'll remain true to it. it would make sense in a perfect world. i don't know if they police it or not. i'm hoping they do. the only one i've been to besides the original is the one on onterio. i'd say it's nearly identical. save for the history, which makes the other my hands down favorite.
here's a little something i wrote for a book as an ode to al's a couple years ago:
Italian Beef
An homage to Al's on Taylor Street in Chicago,
which I grew up eating
dream of often
and go to immediately upon arrival back home.
To be eaten with Mario's Italian Ice,
from directly across
the street.
Over the years, I've gotten it down to a science.
You park @ Al's
walk across Taylor Street to Mario's
get your ice
walk back to Al's
order and eat.
That way,while waiting, you need not be denied
any sensory indulgence..
"Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing." *
The only thing that changes here are the faces and prices.
The aforementioned beef is similar to a French dip.
But to say that, would humble its gravitas.
My earliest memories involve a combo dipped,
hot and sweet,
and fries, thanks.
Seasoned and slow roasted, sliced paper thin
and dipped in it's own pan juices.
A "combo" is the addition of a grilled spicy Italian sausage
to the thin sliced ambrosia on gravy laden roll.
"Hot and sweet" refer to the peppers that are additional
and necessary to attain true Al's enlightenment.
"Sweet" are the red and green peppers sauteed in olive oil
for an hour or so until they become one with the pan.
"Hot" is the fresh giardinera that has chopped garlic,
celery, onion, plum tomato, oregano etc.
"And fries, thanks"
How do I describe the definitive fry?
The fact that they are whole potatoes, peeled skin on,
blanched in oil, drained and then refried at an even higher temperature is shocking enough for a neighborhood joint.
These are frites,
done correctly,
like in a French Bistro.
With the addition of the beef juices dripping
from the sandwich onto them...
It catapults the entire meal into legendary status.
It's greater than the sum of its parts.
It's the bees knees.
The real deal.
The Mahatma Gandhi.
*Oscar Wilde
"In pursuit of joys untasted"
from Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata