Mrs. JiLS and I enjoyed breakfast at Tommy's Grill this morning. Naturally enough, I ordered the biscuits and gravy, plus two over easy and bacon. Mrs. JiLS went for the "2-2-2-2" (two eggs, two slices bacon, two pieces of sausage and two large pancakes), plus an order of hash browns. Mrs. JiLS and I both were much impressed by the soup bowl full of butter, with an upright knife stuck therein, that was presented with her meal. That, plus the sparkling cleanliness of the place, truly sold Mrs. JiLS on Tommy's, despite it's "characterful" neighborhood.
The low-down on the biscuits and gravy is as follows. The biscuits were decent, tasted fresh and while not truly remarkable, were a lot better than most of what you find served hereabouts. The gravy was an honest effort, with enough sausage to at least enter the left end of the bell curve of acceptable sausage content and enough flavor that it could be rescued with a bit of black pepper (or, as Gary shows above, some Pete's hot sauce). So, not bad at all. (Edgebrook Diner is still the one and only place in Chicago I've found that gets the gravy right.) Decent coffee. Plus, they threw in complimentary orange juice, and the total bill was about $14, including tax. Try getting out of Bongo Room for $14 for two (and if you don't mind being laughed at, try asking them for complimentary orange juice, too; maybe if you are Jack White's manicurist, you would get it).
Most country gravy served at the "Greek" places that dominate the Chicago market is just a flavorless white goo with a few flecks of sausage simulacrum floating forlornly about. And the biscuits are ridiculous, pieces of steamed brickbat, tasting three days stale, served with contempt and the thought that, smothered in enough of the Le Page's white library paste, nobody would notice. Well ... Not so, buddy! Anyway, it's not like Tony's gets it entirely right, but they at least don't get it entirely wrong, either. One interesting feature of the presentation is that they slice the biscuit and set both halves, open face down, on the griddle with some butter to heat them up. The results were so-so, compared to a freshly baked biscuit taken directly from the oven and placed on your plate, it's obviously not the same. But, it beat the heck out of the way many places, including, e.g., Edgebrook Diner, abuse their biscuits, which is to make one monster batch and put them all in a metal box over a steam table. I've said it before and will gladly bore any who wish to listen with my analysis that biscuits are really analogous to a souffle; they have a definite half life, they need to be served and enjoyed straight out of the oven, or else they will harden up, lose their flavor and basically fail to be real biscuits; or, at least, really
worthwhile biscuits. (Although the frozen biscuits from Southern Foods in Kenosha somehow manage to survive that process at least marginally well; so there can be no absolutes, here.)
One last thing to note: Tommy's had a nice big pot of slow-cooked grits on the stove, which Tommy stirred up once or twice while we were there. I didn't have the appetite for B&G plus grits, so I can't answer to the quality; but superficially, at least, they looked pretty good. (I also noted they kept a stash of instant grits on hand for those who might order them outside breakfast hours; in itself a good sign, I suppose.)
JiLS