Farewell, black passion

Late-night diners have received a severe blow with the closing of the kitchen at Pasha. The nightclub, perhaps most famous for the champagne bar in its ladies' room, was an undersung post-midnight dining destination, formerly serving a full menu of decent Italian/Mediterranean-influenced fare available till the wee hours in the city's poshest late-night dining room. Menu items such as chilled seafood salad, nice steamed mussels, venison with raspberry sauce and an unusual risotto studded with shrimp and fresh strawberries could be ordered till 3 or 3 in the morning, not to mention the irresistable "black passion" dessert: a chocolate cup filled with fresh fruit macerated in pepper vodka, topped with vanilla ice cream and a touch of black pepper. The club remains open, but alas they no longer serve food.

I guess that leaves Quartino, open till 1 a.m. daily, and the grill at Smith & Wollensky, open till 1:30, as the only destinations left for hungry night owls looking for something more elegant than diners, taquerias and Korean joints. I love Quartino, but it's not exactly white-tablecloth dining and 1 a.m. is hardly late enough. I suppose I'll have to give Bijan's another try, but the revival was disappointing at my last visit.

Well, on Fridays and Saturdays Avec is open until 12:45 am...not quite as late, but later than most high-end restaurants.