MJN wrote:I really dig Chef BK at Aria bar in the Fairmont. He has a real inherent understanding of progression from light to rich to almost a dessert sushi. It's as if you're experiencing a tasting menu at one of the citys pre-fixe high end places. He mixes all his own sauces, ponzu, truffle soy, some interesting combinations. I've never seen a sushi chef taste so much. He doesn't take anything for granted from one sushi move to the next.
I had lunch here Wednesday. While it doesn't answer the OP's query -- he specified no raw fish -- I agree that this is a special place for sushi and sashimi. It's not quite a traditional Japanese approach, but it's very respectful and delicious innovation. Pristine fish, gorgeously presented, exquisitely flavored, in perfect bite sizes. (Fans of Katsu-sized slabs of fish may be less enchanted than I am.) In the nigiri, even the rice was perfect: sticky yet discrete grains and not a bit gummy.
I also appreciate the humor of a menu that puts the tamago under "roe."
There are clearly off-menu items, so it pays to ask. We were describing ume-shiso maki (salt-plum paste and beefsteak leaf) to our lunch companion, and commented that you don't often see it outside of old-fashioned Japanese spots. So one appeared on our plates, even though it is not on the menu. (I'm glad I wasn't talking about natto!) However, the chef did have to explain it to his assistant.
The
menu offers cooked-food items as well, but I don't think it's an omakase destination for someone who doesn't eat raw seafood. But sushi lovers definitely will want to let BK take care of them.
It was very difficult to sit there looking and tasting the beautiful nigiri and sashimi I was getting and keep from lecturing the guy down the bar ordering California roll.
Oh -- and they serve sushi till midnight! Nice sake list, too.
aria bar
312/565-7997
www.ariachicago.com (warning: flash and music!)
Fairmont Hotel Chicago
200 N. Columbus Drive, Chicago