Everybody's got a little piece of the N.N. Smokehouse story, but the details are a little twisted in each post. Frankly, as well as I know Larry Tucker, I'm not sure I've got the whole, straight story, but here goes.
Larry Tucker opened N.N. Smokehouse in the early '90s. We met in '94 or '95 when I went in for lunch just by chance. Larry had a bottle of Barbecue Sauce sitting on his counter with a label on it that looked like the painted mural that adorned the back of his long bench seating that wrapped around the room. The sauce inside the bottle didn't look anything like the sauce he was serving in the restaurant. In fact, upon closer inspection, it looked very much like my "Southwest" variety of Roadhouse Bar-B-Que Sauce!
Having never met Larry before, I played it coy and engaged him in conversation about the restaurant and barbecue in general. After a while I got the chat over to the bottle on his counter. Still not knowing who I was, Larry explained that it wasn't his sauce in the bottle but a store bought brand that he had stripped the label from and replaced with his own, just so he could see how it would look.
At this point I introduced myself and Larry confirmed my suspicions that it was my sauce in the bottle. I never suspected there was any evil doing or attempts at skullduggery and we had a good laugh over this. In fact, at that point he admitted he was a fan of our sauces and asked me if I would sell him my "Hot & Spicy" sauce to use as a table sauce in conjunction with his own "house" recipe. Larry served our sauce right up to the moment he got out of the business.
His explanation for leaving was that his landlord had tripled (maybe even quadrupled) his rent in an effort to force him out and leave the space available for his son to open his own 'Que joint. Out of loyalty to Larry, I didn't set foot in the place for two years (more on that later).
After leaving his business, Larry worked for a while as the head chef at Biasetti's Steak House, on Irving Park near Ashland, just west of where N.N. used to be. When he left there, he went to work in partnership and as head chef with the guys who owned Brudders. Those individuals never owned or had a stake in N.N. Smokehouse.
From Brudders, Larry eventually opened up LT's Grill in the original Wishbone location at Grand and Wood. Because he was only open for lunch, I only got down there to see him once before he left the place.
As for the original Irving Park location of N.N. Smokehouse, I'm not sure what the real story was with the landlord and the raised rent. About two years after Larry left the place, I got a phone call from the new owner, a Mexican fellow named Paco (He initially identified himself as "Frank" to me). Frank had tracked me down, wanting to get my "Hot & Spicy" sauce back on the tables, as several customers had been asking for it.
When I went to Smoke Country House (at my urging, they eventually changed the name to Country Smokehouse) to drop off the sauce, I saw some very familiar faces; all of Larry's old cooks were still there making the same good 'Que, true to Larry's recipes! I had a pulled pork sandwich that was as good as anything Larry had ever served. The landlord's son was nowhere in sight and it seemed this was a well run operation deserving of my business. I became as close to Paco and his cooks as I was with Larry, and went in for dinner once a week.
In early April of this year, as the Barbecue Sauce season started to kick in, I started travelling extensively; missing my weeky "appointment" at Country Smokehouse for almost a month. When I finally got back, I discovered that Paco had sold the place to a couple of guys who had little restuarant or Barbecue experience.
They changed the name to Tripi's Joint (or something like that), dropped numerous menu items (among others, the Asian noodles, which I loved), and added a selection of deli items for no apparent reason. I went in three times in order to give them a fair shake. They disappointed on all three occasions. They served smaller portions for the same old prices, they replaced the fresh cut, fat potato wedges with institutional frozen French Fries, and changed the cole slaw recipe to a less distinctive taste. More than likely they will not get a fourth chance from me.
About a week after Paco sold the place, I ran into his brother by chance while out running errands. He told me that Paco had just burnt out on the restaurant business and had made a career change, starting his own construction and contracting business. Paco worked harder than anyone I've ever seen. If anyone deserves to make it in his chosen field, he is the guy.
As for Larry, I've got his cell phone number in my rolodex, but I haven't used it lately. Maybe it's time to give him a call. If I do, I'll let you know what he's up to.
Buddy