Personally I was enjoying the debate about whether I run a nationally recognized survey, but I guess that can be left for another day. And to be honest, I haven't read through this entire thread but I thought I would weigh in on the subject because the discussion has veered off topic a bit. Here is the issue. When someone walks into a restaurant and says we would like the kitchen to cook for us, all they are really asking is for the kitchen to send out
what they think is their best meal. In some instances that might mean you get dishes that aren't on the menu, and in some instances, the kitchen might devise a tasting menu of what they feel are their best dishes.
One instance that comes to mind was at a restaurant in Spain called Hispania. It's a famous regional restaurant run by two sisters about 40 miles up the coast from Barcelona. We were 8 for lunch on a Friday and the menu must have had a 100 different items on it. One of the owners approached our table to take our order. I explained to her that we were unfamilar with the restaurant and the food of the region, and I would like her to choose our meal and to make sure that we recieved a good sampling of the cuisine they served. Well she ended up sending out between 10-12 dishes, some better than others, but the ones
she was most proud of. Two of the dishes, a chicken escabeche and a langoustine that was stewed with potatoes, were classic Catalan dishes that taught me something about the region's cuisine. But I wouldn't have known to order them if I was left to my own devices.
Now what happened at L2O wasn’t all that different. Typically, at restaurant that holds themselves out to be important the way L2O does, asking the kitchen to cook for you usually has a specific meaning. And in their instance where it doesn’t, the idea that Laurent Gras isn’t capable of choosing our meal, ala the sister Rexac at Hispania, doesn’t compute to me. But instead of Laurent choosing our meal, what happened was that they had Allison our server choose the meal without telling is and if that was going to be the case I would have preferred to choose my own meal. That’s what bothered me.
But it’s the first point that is a bit shocking to me and I don’t think this thread has really dealt with that issue so far. Which is, doesn’t Laurent Gras have enough pride in his artistry to send out a dish where our server can say to us, “Laurent is really proud of this dish and he wanted you to taste it? “ That’s really what we were looking for. Not special treatment the way some people here try to characterize it. But an enhanced dialogue with an artist. And in my experience, it is very odd for a chef to turn that request down. I mean if I walked into anyone of Chicago's Chinese restaurants and said"what fish looks best today, they would be happy to oblige me. Couldn't Laurent Gras do the same simple thing?