I had my first Next experience last night. Having eaten twice at Alinea, I came away thinking that Next is providing a pared-down Alinea experience; pared down in price, extravagance and length. If you go to Next -- despite whatever incarnation it may be -- for the experience, you will enjoy yourself immensely. As I did.
If you go ready to pick apart or mentally compare the authenticity of whatever Next is producing, whether it is Thai, French food, or Iceland 2011, you lose. You wouldn't go to Alinea or The French Laundry to focus on whether they're faithfully executing french food; likewise, you don't go to Next to decipher whether Next: Tour of Thailand makes Thai food just like your favorite neighborhood Thai joint. I'm not trying to be apologetic at all, but as with everything, keeping an open mind and good attitude is everything.
As with Alinea, there's a fair amount of whimsy at Next. Even when you know what the next course will be, the set up -- whether it be a newspaper tablecloth, a stack of small spoons, or the pouring of a cocktail -- is lighthearted. It's meant to be fun. If you didn't think the Thai newspaper and fruity cocktail was a playful homage to eating street food on a hot night, you probably are taking everything too seriously.
There's no lack of funk. The smell of fish sauce wafts over the room. What you have is a signature deftness in execution. Neighborhood Thai joints are cheap, yes, but the value masks what are all-too-often heavy-handed, or just plain uneven, results. Thai cuisine inherently employs a lot of vibrant flavors (at least vibrant to a Western palate). But I think it would be a mistake to assume that the hottest and funkiest version of a dish is the "best" or the most "authentic" version. As with a corner red sauce Italian joint piling on too much garlic, some of the worst versions of neighborhood Thai stray too far from a balance of sweet, sour, hot and salt. As with every neighborhood restaurant, neighborhood Thai is limited and taxed by kitchen turnover, rush times that pressure the kitchen, or getting slammed trying to balance the economic survival inherent in a delivery/takeout/dining room business model.
That's where Next comes in. Restaurants like Next attract talented chefs. Chefs like Dave Beran have proven their ability to adapt and execute. The reservations system (for all its flaws) ensures that the kitchen is not going to get slammed. But more than that, the knowledge of classic technique elevates the dining experience. As does the beverage service -- the varied selection of cocktails, wine, beer and rum enhanced every single dish I tasted.
Two particular courses transcended Next Thai above a neighborhood Thai experience.
One, the soup. For me, the standouts at every high end restaurant is the execution of soup and sauces. Far from the philosophy of throwing everything in a pot, watering it down and serving it, a great restaurant can be judged by the clarity of a stock that has layers of flavor. The deeply-flavored rabbit consommé I ate at Alinea was easily one of my best bites of 2010. Likewise, the tom yam at Next announced fine dining -- it was a beautifully clarified broth with balanced flavors and a slow lingering heat.
Two, the relish course. I absolutely loved the experience of taking alternative bites of varyingly funky, sweet, sour and savory umami with sticky rice. (If you thought Next would avoid funk to appease either the young white hipsters or white yuppies, depending upon who you think Next appeals to, take one bite of the duck egg condiment.)
The servers made an effort to be casual, and were chatty. I talked with one who mentioned the "research" the staff did for Next Thai -- which incidentally (or not so incidentally) included numerous visits to SpACaroy Rice. He mentioned how they begged the kitchens at these places for the funkiest condiments -- one of the owners (I think he said it was at TAC) didn't want to bring out shrimp paste because he was afraid it would make the dining room smell foul. He also made passing reference to Chef Achatz's relunctance toward the funkiest flavors -- I was told that he thought the duck egg condiment finished too strongly, but others disagreed, so there it is, on the table in all its funkiness. In changing Next's theme every three months, the collaborative effort in executing it is obviously that part of the fun. And at the price point, I think it's fair for the restaurant to take some liberties. Some liberties may work, some may not.
Next Thai is less an introduction to Thai than an introduction to the highest tier of innovative fine dining, the likes of which include Alinea, Per Se, and The French Laundry. If you go expecting that, and allow yourself to be taken along the journey, and focus not whether you can get "better" or cheaper Thai food elsewhere, you'll have a great experience.
P.S. As for the rosewater-doused dragonfruit -- I think I was the only one who liked this course. But paired with Banks rum, this seemingly motley trio of rose, blandish fruit and hot rum took several bites and sips to enjoy.
P.P.S. If you don't drink or don't like to drink, and are content to eat Thai food with water or [insert name] beer, then you'll probably miss a large part of this experience. Speaking personally, I greatly enjoyed the beverage pairings and believe that the staff's sometimes unusual choices greatly enhanced the dishes.
Last edited by
aschie30 on August 12th, 2011, 11:13 am, edited 1 time in total.