i went Friday...called this morning and have reservations for June 27th. so it can be done.
Schwa restaurant. Friday May 2nd, 2008.
Surreal. Unique. Prodigious. Revelatory. A divine chimera.
My own shortness of articulation cannot adequately express the dining experience I had at this tiny, non-descript location in Chicago. It was so originally inspiring and impeccably brilliant. Now, please understand that such accolades are coming from a person who has refused to eat a strawberry out of stubborn (and foolish?) conviction and finds tremendous comfort in Better Cheddars. So one might argue that my world of food was rather limited and somewhat predictably safe. I entered the night with a bit of trepidation - unaware of the surprises and combinations that Chef Michael Carlson was going to create - but I left the 3 hour meal totally satiated, with expectations met beyond belief and a newly discovered sense of wanting to explore all the flavors and textures of various ingredients. And strangely enough, I even found myself craving to have lamb brains and jellyfish again this morning.
I did some minimal research before even accepting the invitation, but figured I would only be missing out on something new and inventive. And with some friendly encouragement (as well as knowing how difficult it can be to even get a reservation at the place), I convinced myself that I would go into the night with an open mind and a willingness to have no pre-conceived notions of anything. I wanted a blank slate that had no fear or reservations. I embraced the notion of discovering a new place to eat, but the whole thing just totally blew my mind in an out-of-this-world, fascinating fashion.
Immediately upon entering the room - that seats no more than 24 people - I felt at ease for some reason. There is no hostess, no wait staff. This place is the chef and his 3 staff - they do everything. This total lack of pretension - and desire to place the food at the forefront - is a testament to the passion in which they have created this original display of culinary talent. There is absolutely no bullshit conveyed here. It is a world brimming with destruction of repetition and a search for ingenuity. Presentations are colorful and innovative, yet they only serve to be a supporting element to the underlying reason why Schwa is being heralded as a “foodie heaven” of sorts. Nothing is compromised or sacrificed….each component having a clear purpose and pure intent. Each course was on such a different wavelength of excellence, a stratosphere I was totally unfamiliar with, but one that I embraced whole-heartedly with conviction and pleasure.
So with that introduction, here is how the adventure transpired in all its glory, as best memory can serve me (with a little help from a few blogs describing some of the dishes in greater detail)
Amuse
Perched atop a glass block (to facilitate eating this starter like taking a shot of alcohol in one fell swoop) sat red grapefruit with honey sorbet and chamomile agar. It was so simple and inviting -- and the first clue that the night ahead was going to be an adventure. A refreshing start to the journey ahead….the flavors melded so brilliantly as they dissolved in my mouth. Delicate and welcoming.
Jonah Crab: Bananas, Celery, Coriander
Four offerings aligned as a diagonal down the plate. Starting with a piece of roasted banana with celery puree and sweet celeriac sticks. Then two offerings of crab (one pickled), partially hidden underneath a dehydrated banana crisp. The sous chef mentioned saving the best for last…..savoring a toasted brioche infused in the middle with a banana liquor with a hint of citrus coriander. Once I bit into the ball, my mouth exploded in amazing flavors and subtle genius.
Beer Cheese Soup
An interesting play on this basic notion, but the cheese and beer originates from a monastery in Belgium. The soup is served in a small cup to the left of the plate, while the right offers up a tiny pretzel ball and dill puree on the sides…and the whole thing is topped off my a thin dehydrated mustard chip. This course was a curious interplay and the soup was definitely concentrated, but it didn’t completely wow me either.
Pad Thai
I had the traditional noodle dish and was expecting peanuts to play some role. And while they did create a delectable peanut puree that was smooth and balanced, the brilliance here existed in using jellyfish as the “noodles.” This was my initial exposure that these guys liked to think differently and approach things from a radical perspective. Elegantly exquisite.
Arctic Char Roe
Not being a huge fan of caviar to begin with, I was a bit nervous in anticipating the next dish. Yet I quite enjoyed this saltier and robust version of roe….and it was combined with pumpernickel rounds, mustard seeds, and rutabaga balls underneath a Meyer lemon puree. The rutabaga juice was a tad overwhelming, but I appreciated the daring ambition for pairing the plate up as they did. A brave take on standard fare.
Quail Egg Ravioli (off menu)
Standard ravioli with the typical cheese and brown butter, but the hidden gem of this one-bite wonder lies in the center of the pasta. The yolk bursts into your mouth delicately, but this creation (somewhat of a standard for Carlson now) is densely rich and sensuously delicious.
Kona Kampachi
I am not a sushi or raw food aficionado - that is to say, I do not crave or seek out such pleasures in any regularity. My exposure to such delicacy has been rare and few and far between, probably by choice. After tasting this combination, call me a believer. Accompanied by lime gelee, a galangal crisp, and a maple foam, this hit a perfect note. It combined the sashimi with a considered compliment of flavors that all worked together. But I must say…..the daikon fired with some spice and heat that was just randomly placed at the corner of the plate might just have been my favorite thing of the entire evening.
Morels
Executed to perfection….and I was shocked to enjoy two things that served as the centerpieces of this wonderful dish. Not being a huge fan of mushrooms in the first place, I instead focused on the other piece at the trough of the presentation. Lo and behold, I found myself wanting to soak up every last bit of lamb brain pillows. The texture, the flavor, the balance….it was all impeccable - supported by a mushroom foam and a quaint little poached egg. I found myself in blissful heaven by this point in the meal. And did I mention again that I just ate lamb brains with nasturtium?
Antelope
A sqaure peg of butternut squash separated the antelope prepared two different ways: tenderloin sous vide that melted in my mouth and a ragout that was stewed for over 8 hours. Holy dear lord was this tasty. Chef Carlson even described how they shot the antelope from a helicopter to make it more humane afterwards - a perfect example of the care and consideration they take in all aspects of the restaurant. By the end of this dish, I was lapping up my last piece of the loin in the white chocolate mousse and the macadamia puree. Yes, it sounds like a strange amalgam of sorts, but this one was definitely a favorite.
Cheese
Their play on cheesecake featured Humboldt fog blue cheese with black truffle ash atop a graham cracker crust, served in a bite-sized triangle on a spoon. To me, blue cheese is an either/or proposition - there is no middle ground. I fall into the disdain category - and try as they might, not even Schwa could change that opinion. A miss for me, but I appreciated the playfulness.
Dessert
A parsnip custard was plated next to maple syrup and lavender foam. Passion fruit was smeared around the plate to go with the sweet candied sweetbreads (supreme actually). Sweet and savory.
And then it was all over…..but never to be forgotten.
By the end of the meal, we had finished our two bottles of wine ( a pinot noir and a reisling), bolstered a bit when he also offered us the remnants of a white wine another table had brought and then also graciously provided us with an Allagash beer as we continued to revel in the experience….which by that point had approached 3 hours. The experience was orgasmic and inspiring. It has lingered with me for days now, dreaming of those audacious combinations and wonderful flavors. It was stunning in both scope and direction. My paradigm has shifted my friends. This was a journey of explorations and discovery, a psychedelic and sensory overload of epic and astute wonder, hosted by a genuine and all-around cool character.
Food as art. Transcendent. A state of mind. Nectar of the gods.