The super-secret, you'd-never-guess-what-was-inside exterior of underground restaurant Bonsoiree.
Eatchicago and Petit Pois, Stevez, and my wife (King's Thursday) and myself went to Bonsoiree last night for the seven-course tasting menu.
The back patio seemed like a charming idea, proved less so in the mugginess, mosquitoness and proximity to warm dumpsters of the evening, but the service was certainly excellent-- from the chef and from our waiter, whom some of you will recognize from another establishment, both of whom were personable, deeply interested in how we were enjoying the meal, and well on top of things throughout the meal. (So does that mean they're just really nice and friendly, or that they recognized us as being on LTHForum recon? Yes.)
The courses started with a yellowtail tartare disc surrounded by ponzu sauce and wasabi tobiko (I translated for my wife, to whom all this Japanese was Greek):
As you might expect from caterers turned restaurateurs, they have that pretty food thing down really well. Next was a cold tomatillo soup (not the most photogenic course of the night):
We expected the yellowtail to taste mainly of itself, though the lack of wasabi in the wasabi tobiko was a slight disappointment. The tomatillo soup, however, gave us more cause for worry-- it just seemed to be missing some finishing touch, like salt or sherry vinegar or something, that would make it into more of a dish, and less like sipping a salsa or a sauce for a piece of broiled fish.
Somewhere along the way Stevez ordered this, and recommends it to all:
The next course, happily, recovered and gave us more confidence for the rest of the meal. We actually tasted two different dishes, a crabcake (I forget, now, what the distinctive features of it were):
and the dish I think we all pretty much agreed was the best of the night, a rabbit dish with gnocchi:
The crabcake was pretty nice, although a couple of folks objected to the rosewater in the sauces around it, which gave it a slightly soapy nose as you ate it. But the rabbit dish was excellent, buttery and lush, well worth having as an entree if you go.
That's where the pictures end because darkness fell soon after. A halibut dish was nicely put together but the halibut was a bit overcooked, a little tough and stringy as that fish can get; it ought to have been supple and moist. The inevitable big-meat course was clearly intended to be a showstopper, but had the bad luck of being awfully similar to something I had made for a party a month or so ago, which as it happened everyone at our table had tried: in my case it was the glazed pork belly from the Balthazar cookbook, here it was pork belly in star anise bourbon sauce, both tasting of tomatoes cooked down and a vaguely Chinese flavor profile. A solidly savory and filling dish, too bad it was robbed of the novelty factor in our particular case.
Next was a cheese course, of which a very nice, soft St.-Andre was the best. Finally came dessert-- and not surprisingly, coming from a caterer and a nearly one-man-band in the kitchen, this seemed mainly to be an assemblage of items from outside (the Vanille Patisserie chocolate tag on one being the dead giveaway). The best of them was a simple grapefruit sorbet, but there was something for everyone-- chocoholic, banana bread pudding fan, novelty seeker (sage sorbet).
So what did we think, what did I think, especially given that Jim in Logan Square has nominated this place for the highest honor known to man, the Great Neighborhood Restaurant award? My feeling, frankly-- a nice place, a promising place, but very much a work in progress; a place where a young chef is learning his way, pulling off some accomplished dishes and also missing the mark sometimes in seasonings (the soup) or in execution (the halibut). And at $24 for three courses, that's a really good deal, to have a neighborhood place of such ambition, often realized, and to be able to go there and see what's new every couple of months. At $65... now we're getting up there in real money, and other places have proven cannier in delivering bang for the buck (Dave Richards at Sweets and Savories, for instance, making sure that some luxe ingredients like white truffle or
foie gras turn up along the way to make the prix fixe seem like a steal). That forced me to start comparing it to other places in that price range, and at best it lands in the middle with other places that seemed pretty good but not knockouts, like Sola. So in terms of being a Great Neighborhood Restaurant, it seems premature to me (ironically given this thread's title)-- but well worth watching at the $24 price point, and more than friendly and welcoming enough to make you want to wish it well and see it achieve its promise.