
The view (do us both a favor and check it out in a
larger version)
It is virtually impossible to walk into this room and not be awed, if not by the room itself then by the view. You will never in your life see the Trib Tower and the top of the Wrigley building so close. The picture doesn't do the view real justice--at this elevation, a mere sixteen floors in the sky, the latter is so close you truly feel as if you need only reach out to touch it. The view is unique and extraordinary and, for me, it set the tone. You may not find yourself as impressed with the room as I did, but I challenge anyone not to be awed by the view of these world-famous landmarks.
The ceiling is thirty feet high, one entire wall is paneled in exotic African Kevazinga wood (you may want to check out
Blair Kamin’s review, though Kamin settled for “West African wood”). The entire curving outer wall is floor-to-ceiling windows (interrupted by structural elements only). The carpet I found a little odd and it put me in mind of nothing so much as the even hokier leopard (tiger?) print carpet at the Everest Room. But, jeez...who cares? The chairs are very comfortable and, as the third picture below shows, the tables are more than adequately spaced. It’s nice not to know what everyone else is talking about, for a change. The generous spacing is only enhanced by the high ceiling and extraordinary view.
the room (photo courtesy of the architects, Valerio Dewalt Train Associates)
the room (courtesy of Gypsy Boy)
reduxNext, the staff. Even the best staff in the world can’t make mediocre food taste good. But a great staff can make great food taste even better. Our experience proved the latter. Sure, some servers or clearers/bussers are warmer, more outgoing than others. But I can’t remember the last place I was where virtually everyone wore a smile and, better still, each smile seemed genuine. I won’t presume to know how they’ve done it, how long it will last, or even how genuine it “really” is. All I can tell you is that both the Lovely Dining Companion and I were truly impressed by the attitude of everyone in the room.
We were started with a gratis cocktail, sparkling wine or a mimosa. I had a mimosa and, while I can safely say that this is not my favorite drink in the world, I was pretty impressed with their version.
The food, you ask? It is not the largest selection I have ever seen, I don’t think, although it is large and wide-ranging. What sets it apart, aside from thoughtful and beautiful presentation, is its freshness. As the photos can only begin to show, you have an array of seafood: including, but not limited to Alaskan King crab legs, jumbo shrimp, a surprisingly wide array of sushi and sashimi; at least six kinds of salads (green, caprese, and others); soups; breads, accompanied by a little charcuterie: prosciutto, salami, mortadella, and soppressata; an intriguing selection of cheeses (together with compotes, relishes, and chutneys), including several kinds of superb stuffed peppers, hot and mild; a kid’s table with grilled cheese, mini-pizzas, mini-burgers, and deep-fried chicken fingers; desserts far too numerous to list and as delicious as they were exquisite; a selection of perfectly ripe fruit; various kinds of breads and bagels together with the
de rigueur accompaniments (including some top-notch lox, red onions, cream cheese, capers, and more). A selection of breads were offered; LDC was less than impressed with the pretzel bread but I found everything I tried to be of high quality. There were some “standard” items (such as scrambled eggs, omelets made to order, pancakes, waffles, and the like, prime rib carved to order) which we skipped in order to leave more room for other things. In addition, at the far end of the spread were three lunch entrees, including fish, filet mignon, a cauliflower casserole, and a fourth item I can no longer recall. The cauliflower casserole was good; I was disappointed with my bite of fish and my meat. I should have stuck to the brunch items and not ventured entrée-ward. Chafing dishes should be outlawed: the intention may be noble but some food just isn’t meant to be kept warm
ad infinitum. (In fairness, since we didn’t try the pancakes, waffles, scrambled eggs, eggs benedict, etc., I don’t know how those fared under similar circumstances.)
some bagel fixings and some of the fruit
sushi and sashimi
shrimps and crabs
salads
for the kids
some of the meats and cheesesJust in case I’m not entirely clear on the quality of the food: notwithstanding the few missteps I experienced, the food was uniformly excellent. There was clearly a great deal of care given to every step: from the choice of offerings, to the selections (both expected and “un-”), the presentations, and, best of all, the preparations. Food was fresh, easily portioned and served, and delicious. It’s hard to ask for more—especially given the setting and the service.
One other thing I should note about it is the almost over-the-top desire to be of assistance. Several times our server made a point of asking if there was anything at all that we wanted that wasn’t available. We didn’t. We really didn’t. But after a while, it became a little game to think of something, anything, that we might eat that wasn’t on offer. Finally, after a lot of thought, we came up with something: a scone. After some to-ing and fro-ing in the kitchen (we imagine—since no one is going to whip up a batch of scones on demand...not even at a Trump place), we were given half of a beautiful sweet biscuit, topped with a flourish of what almost tasted like Devonshire cream. A nice try, indeed, but not a scone. And, in fact, we would have been happy without even the effort. It was a small indication, but an indication nevertheless, that they were trying just a little TOO hard to please. I don’t expect anyone to offer every single dish I might ever conceivably want to have for brunch. Neither do I hold the fact that some items might be missing against them.
desserts
more desserts
still more dessertsThe attention to detail is impressive. Take a look at the picture of the seafood again. See the little bowl of lemons in front. Not something you focus on, right? But look at those lemons again. Not only are little pieces cut off the ends to make them easier to grab and squeeze, but the pith is gone from the centers. All of it. And I don’t think you’ll find a single seed. You’re probably used to lemons that someone quickly quartered and threw on a plate or in a bowl. When was the last time you saw a kitchen that took the time to not only think about the people who would be picking up the slices to use but also took the time to make each slice attractive? Is this a big deal? In the greater scheme of things, probably not. And yet, maybe so. When the kitchen pays attention to details like this, you can be pretty damn sure that they’re paying even more attention to the food you’ll be eating. How can you not be impressed?
The LDC treated me to this brunch; it was in honor of the anniversary of her move to Chicago. So I can't say how much it cost—though I have no doubt that it was dear. I honestly can’t recall a better brunch. While it may not be to everyone’s taste—what is?—we found the food to be very good indeed, across the board. Not everything was a hit (I didn’t care for the sushi, frankly, though the quality of the fish in the sashimi was unimpeachable; I should note, in fairness, that LDC did like the sushi) nor was everything precisely to my taste. So? I find it impossible to ignore the contribution of the room and the attitude of the staff and so, in the end, I find it hard to imagine a better brunch. Equally good in a different setting with a different ambiance, perhaps. But better? I doubt it.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)