stevez wrote:I had a great lunch today at Cho Jung with the LTH North Lunch Group. Besides the great panchan, the highlight for me (as is usually the case) was the Soon Dubu Jigae served bubbling hot.
ronnie_suburban wrote:What I love about Cho Jung is that because of what they specialize in, you can dine there solo and still enjoy the best of what they have to offer. Some panchan and a bowl of soondubu or pollack roe soup is a fantastic lunch.
I’m right with you guys. Having tasted several versions of
soondubu jigae (soft tofu soup) around Chicago over the last few years, I’d definitely cast my vote for Cho Jung. A few years back, I had high hopes of doing a soondubu roundup post but after one lackluster effort after another, I didn’t think it would have been at all useful to write up.
Soondubu jigae is an elemental soup essentially comprised of little more than soft/silken tofu, water or stock (just water at most restaurants), usually seafood (shrimp, mussels, oysters), maybe some vegetables such as mushrooms, egg, a bit of scallion, and Korean chili paste (
Gochujang) or powder (
kochu karu). Other versions can also be found such as mushroom, meat, kimchee, or some combination. You would think that most versions of this basic soup would have the ability to satisfy most. But almost nothing could be further from the truth. The dish is greatly elevated when steps are taken such as making your own silken tofu (
soondubu), serving the boiling bowl with a whole raw egg on the side so as to be added by the customer to their liking, or by using pristine/fresh/live shellfish. Unfortunately, most places making
soondubu jigae don’t take these efforts. In fact, I’m not aware of any restaurant in Greater Chicago that makes its own soft tofu. Cho Dang in Mount Prospect (Their Naperville location is now closed) is the only place I’m aware of in Chicagoland that serves their bowl with a raw whole egg on the side without being solicited.
Although Cho Jung isn't necessarily serving up their
soondubu jigae with pristine seafood (who is?), they've loaded the bowl with what I believe is minced squid (I believe ronnie_suburban thought it might be snails?) to help beautifully reinforce their broth to a level surpassed by nobody else around. This might be hard to notice at first since the stone bowl (
dolsot) is nothing more than a boiling cauldron and is virtually impossible to taste any of its nuances. But if patient, (after about 15-20 minutes) the bowl will obviously cool down to then reveal its true depth (or non-depth) of flavors.
If you enjoy your soup spicy, it’s a good idea to request it be to be made that way from your server. Many places have a tendency to dumb down the spice element for its non-Asian clientele - a completely logical and understandable hedge from their point of view. I've never asked Cho Jung if they're using the enjoyable soft tofu being made at Super H Mart but I'd bet they do.
Usually, the better soondubu joints will automatically serve a whole raw egg on the side so the customer can integrate it into the soup to their own liking (beaten, poached, raw). As Ronnie mentioned above, places like Cho Jung seem to reflexively serve their Korean/Asian clientele a raw egg at the same time as the soup while for the rest of us, the kitchen will usually integrate the egg into the soup beforehand - often times resulting in an overcooked egg. In some establishments, the server will crack the egg in the bowl for you tableside clearly as a courteous gesture.
Lastly, a quality side bowl of rice is critical for a good
soondubu jigae experience (as well as most Asian dishes, for that matter). Dipping a spoonful of quality rice into a flavorful and spicy bowl of soondubu is the most enjoyable part about this meal for me. Poor rice can easily destroy the whole experience. If it weren't for Cho Dang’s marginal rice, they would be on a par with Cho Jung.
I'm hoping either ReneG or tatterdemalion post some pictures of Beverly Soon Tofu in Los Angeles from a previous trip we made there a few years back. This is the only place I’m aware (along with So Kong Dong directly across the street in Koreatown although I’m sure there’s others out there) that make their own soft tofu in-house. Both truly make kick-ass versions of this classic Korean soup. Either of these places is completely worthy of going out of your way for if you happen to be in L.A.