I had my long-awaited first experience at Avec tonight and it was well worth the wait. Actually, it made me feel silly for waiting, but that's besides the point. Arriving at 6 PM, we had the unexpected benefit of setting in at the chef's stools with a great view.
We started off with the dates, which were very good. An undersold portion of this dish was the piquillo-pepper tomato sauce which was perfect sop for the fresh-from-the-oven bread.
Next, we moved on to "crispy chicken thigh with roasted delicata squash, honey poached chestnuts, shaved apple and frissee." This was just delicious, my favorite savory of the night. The chicken was crispy as advertised, but what made this dish was the delicious squash served underneath it stuffed with the poached chestnuts. These ain't no canned, pureed chestnuts, kids. Rich, creamy, smacking of honey and nestled in butter kissed perfectly textured delicata squash rounds. Perhaps my only complaint about this dish was that there wasn't more apple-fresee salad on top. These were good piquant flavors to counterpoint the richness below. But a minor quibble. I'd easily gobble this again.
We finished off with the wood-fired pizza with house made lamb sausage, peruvian lima beans, cumin, artichokes and dandelion greens. The dandelion greens were a bit overly-assertive here. But the short-dough had some great olive-oil inspired crunch and the lima beans were ground to a rich, smoothe paste that was spread as a base layer for the pizza. I confirmed with Johnny who worked the grill tonight, that the artichokes were poached. Ever had artichokes that you would describe as velvet-in-your-mouth*? Then hie thee to Avec. The lamb sausage could have been more assertive and the cumin flavor was undetectable. All in all, a satisfying pie (and surprisingly filling).
I couldn't resist a special on the dessert board tonight. Pumpkin cake with olive oil ice cream and pear-cranberry compote. Boy did this get me singing. I'd first had olive oil flavored gelato at Batali's Otto in New York and found that I got over my initial anxieties and liked it. Tonight's version was more subtle than the New York version, tasting more of, well, ice cream until the slightly fruity olive oil finish. This was pared with a pumpkin cake that was carmelized in a pan with butter and topped with the pleasantly tart pear-cran compote.
I was dining with my mom and mentioned to the staff that she was a little nervous about the olive oil ice cream. Looking at our clean plate after we had hoovered the thing up, one of them commented, "Well, I guess the ice cream didn't go over."
"Yeah," replied my mom, "we hated the pumpkin cake too."
Avec is a spot that is inventive, focused and dedicated to putting bite after tasty bite into your mouth. There's a lot to like here. I hope to be back soon.
*It's melty, it's velvety it's...velvet in your mouth. And that's a good thing!