Well, that was probably the best meal I've ever had. Everything was just spectacular, from the wine (2003 Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris, recommended by Ivar, who was a phenomenal waiter) to the service.

The food:

Scallop appetizer-- perfectly cooked, with a nice sear on the outside but still rare in the middle. The local sweet corn was the perfect accompaniment; it provided a crisp burst of sweetness with an almost caviar-like texture.

Sweetbreads appetizer-- creamy, fatty, and crispy. Simply superb. The lemon-hazelnut yogurt added to the creaminess but also provided a nice acidic counterpoint. My only complaint was that there was too much beet for the rest of the dish.

Arctic char-- I only had a tiny bite of this, but it was again a perfectly cooked piece of fish. The peaches and tomatoes were delicious.

The star of the show: Pork belly-- Easily the best dish I've ever had. Creamy, flavorful, somehow no overwhelming despite the fattiness. The local plums were ideal, and the barbecue consomme was whimsical and delicious. Is it cold-gelatin clarified?

Both deserts--fig beignets and chocolate cremaux--were delicious as well.

All in all, a complete meal. Also, Wylie Dufresne was there, having dinner at the bar. (Unsurprisingly, he was the only person there in a t-shirt and sneakers.)

Also, Wylie Dufresne was there, having dinner at the bar.

Gee, I wonder why he was there...

cough*topchef*cough

Well, the chef de cuisine at Blackbird, Mike Sheerin, used to be sous at WD-50. But you're right, the timing does imply that maybe he'll be on the next season. Would that mean a greater emphasis on the cutting-edge technical side for TC down the road? I've felt all this season that that aspect of contemporary cooking has been largely ignored.

G Wiv wrote:LTH,

...but Mission Fig Beignet with black raspberries, butterscotch and bacon ice cream hit a home run. Bacon Ice Cream, oh yeah!

I went there the other night to try this very dessert. First I had the scallop appetizer with eggplant puree, apples and corn, and boy was that fab. The scallops just about melted in my mouth, and who knew what a great combo corn and apples is?

But the dessert - meh. I loves me some bacon, so the ice cream was a nice treat, although a little too smoky. I'd get it again, though, and the butterscotch sauce was yummy and raspberries I could eat by the pound. However, I was angered by the donuts - I could swear the bigger one (if you could call it "big") was stuffed with raspberry jam, and they were NOT beignets. These were your basic sugar donuts. Beignets are lighter and covered with powdered sugar, and also, since these bite-size confections were so small, all I got was a mouthful of granulated sugar. I was not pleased. But I have a craving for bacon ice cream now; I'll have to make that myself.

Also, I'm a big fan of restaurants that give you a free appetizer; this time I got a wee taste of trout, lentils, and quince puree. Mmmmmmm tasty. I think I'll be back for a special evening of sorts, once I have some more spending money. Also, I liked the atmosphere - trendy, but not annoyingly so, and open. The service was incredibly friendly. If you're going late, maybe you can find parking, as I did, and skip the El.

By the way, on a completely unrelated, non-foodie note, isn't the El always referred to as an El? My boyfriend says that the El is referred to as a subway when it's underground, and I say no, the El is the El and that's it.

Bacon rules!

Not to hijack this fine thread on a restaurant I have yet to go to (I know...i need to fix that! The descriptions of the scallop alone have made me weak in the knees) but to the best of my knowledge, Ms. Lady of the Pies -- the El is the El whether it's above ground or below ground. City dwellers tend to refer to it as the "el" generally and I think we tend to use the name of the line we're on more frequently -- as in "I took the Red Line" to the Loop.".

My two centavos.

earthlydesire wrote:...to the best of my knowledge, Ms. Lady of the Pies -- the El is the El whether it's above ground or below ground.

Ha! That'll show 'im.

But yeah, you must go try the scallops. I've had great scallops before at Wildfire, also moist and flavorful with a delicious lemon butter sauce, but I've never had any melt-in-your-mouth varieties before. Maybe I shouldn't be talking about this before lunch...

Had a wonderful impromptu lunch at Blackbird today...I cannot believe that this place has been open since 1999 and IMHO has not missed a beat since. Every meal that I have ever had has been as good as the last. I am consistenlty amazed by the quality local ingredients and attention to even the smallest detail paid by the entire house at this gem.

My soup and salad lunch consisted of

salad of endives, crispy potatoes, basil, dijon, pancetta and poached egg

and

blackbird bouillabaisse: a selection of fish and shellfish with fennel, potato, saffron, garlic, thyme and grilled bread

The soup was richly complex and savory while still being light as air... chock full of fresh fish and shrimp and seasoned like i was eating a concentrated version of the briny air in in a seaside cote d'azur town like Antibe or St. Tropez. I could have eaten two loves of bread soaking up the remnants of this deliciousness.

As for the salad, any combination of greens, pork and a poached egg is a winner in my book. This version is really good.

I love this restaurant more and more each time I eat there. Dont forget about Blackbird if you need a west loop lunch spot.

Went to Blackbird last night for a pre-Bulls game dinner. Everything was awesome as usual, but my appetizer was one of the best things I've eaten in quite some time. I would actually rank it as one of the best appetizers I've ever had (like Truffle Explosion or Oysters & Pearls level).

Advertised on the menu as a "Scotch" quail and egg, this was essentially a Scotch egg with quail substituted for the sausage and what I think was a quail egg in the center. It was topped with American sturgeon caviar. So many things going on here. The quail on the outside was insanely juicy and had a fantastic texture to it. The egg in the center wasn't runny, but wasn't really cooked all the way through. On my first bite without looking, I thought I was eating some melty fat (but in a good way), if that gives you an idea of the interior texture). The egg was served along side some of Blackbird's bacon.

If anyone is going soon, you must must must order this. You can thank me later.

I just checked out Blackbird's site to see if they had changed the menu much since I was there a couple of months ago. I see that they now have a 7 course tasting menu for $100 per person. Has anybody tried this yet? I was going to try Avec or Frontera Grill when I'm in Chicago in a couple of weeks, but I'm not sure I can pass this up.

tmccarthy wrote:I just checked out Blackbird's site to see if they had changed the menu much since I was there a couple of months ago. I see that they now have a 7 course tasting menu for $100 per person. Has anybody tried this yet? I was going to try Avec or Frontera Grill when I'm in Chicago in a couple of weeks, but I'm not sure I can pass this up.

That sounds like a pretty good deal. Appetizer/main course/dessert can easily run you $50-$60, plus I always have a hard time deciding between dishes there.

I had the tasting the day after Thanksgiving. It was 9 courses; 5 savory, 2 amuse, and 2 dessert. It was outstanding. They also offer a wine pairing.

tmccarthy wrote:I just checked out Blackbird's site to see if they had changed the menu much since I was there a couple of months ago. I see that they now have a 7 course tasting menu for $100 per person. Has anybody tried this yet? I was going to try Avec or Frontera Grill when I'm in Chicago in a couple of weeks, but I'm not sure I can pass this up.

FWIW, was at Avec on Monday, and everyone was quite happy with the meal. Did not take notes on each dish, but the chorizo-stuffed dates, some sort of anchovy pesto flatbread with a bitter green on top, the chicory salad, all made a good impression. The more traditional meat courses - brisket and confit of duck - did not impress quite as much, not that they were bad.

We were a group of 7 there, pre-Opera (the first act of Dr. Atomic was blissful for me, though clearly not what a large percentage of the audience wanted) and Avec was perfect for that sociable group.

I often end up at Corner Bakery pre-opera as I worry about getting downtown and having enough time to eat. What time did you get to Avec and how long did the meal take?

BTW, the crowd on Wednesday didn't really thin out after the 1st act. It was the odd silence and long pause before clapping at the end of the opera that I found interesting.

My parents are coming up for my birthday in two weeks, and I am considering going to blackbird for dinner. Is the atmosphere/food at all pretentious or yuppie? What do people generally wear for a meal there? Also, my sister is incredibly picky, so I am a bit worried that she won't find anything on the menu that she would enjoy (she pretty much sticks to pasta, salmon, and steak). And lastly, is it realistic to stay around $60 per person, not including drinks and gratuity? Thanks in advance!

thomasec wrote:My parents are coming up for my birthday in two weeks, and I am considering going to blackbird for dinner. Is the atmosphere/food at all pretentious or yuppie? What do people generally wear for a meal there? Also, my sister is incredibly picky, so I am a bit worried that she won't find anything on the menu that she would enjoy (she pretty much sticks to pasta, salmon, and steak). And lastly, is it realistic to stay around $60 per person, not including drinks and gratuity? Thanks in advance!

Their current menu, including prices, is up on their website, so you can see for yourself if your budget is realistic (it'll be close) and if your sister will be able to find something to eat.

As for the food at atmosphere being pretentious/yuppie, I'm not really sure what you mean by that. Are there other restaurants out there that you've been to that would fit that description?

In terms of dress, anything business casual on up will be fine.

As for the food at atmosphere being pretentious/yuppie, I'm not really sure what you mean by that. Are there other restaurants out there that you've been to that would fit that description?

Well...Tru is probably a good example of a place where I felt a bit overwhelmed by the atmosphere and presentation of everything. Generally for birthdays, we go to restaurants like Ruth Chris, or Mortons, so I'm trying to gauge just how "upscale" Blackbird is.

You'll be perfectly comfortable in Blackbird. It is a relatively casual environment that just happens to have some of the best food in the city. No pretensions here.

So Tomorrow --- Blackbird

I enjoyed a splendid lunch at Blackbird. A wonderful way to end a year of eating. The food at Blackbird really flies. At its best Chef Kahan's cuisine is as creative and accomplished as any chef in town, perhaps less elaborated but with a startling and compelling mixture of tastes and textures.

I began with baby octopus confit with braised chestnuts, empire apples, pea tendrils and sassafras caramel. This construction was as fascinating and wildly textured as any appetizer I have had for awhile. Chewy, crackly, smooth and crunchy. Sweet and just a bit sour. A truly magnificent dish.



As an entree I selected slow roasted duck with fried byrd mill grits, citrus brussel sprouts and puffed wild rice. I was blown away by the finely threaded brussel sprouts - the emotional heart of the dish. The duck, grits and rice, well-cooked, played a supporting role.



Dessert was a beautifully composed mission fig beignet with cara cara oranges, butterscotch and bacon ice cream. I have been rather critical of desserts as late, but not this. Like the appetizer, this was one of the most sensational and brilliant desserts of the year. The bacon ice cream seemed simultaneously surprising and totally natural. What a lovely way to end the year.



Why then is Blackbird not often listed in the company with other four star restaurants, where, by virtue of the food it belongs? When Blackbird opened a decade ago it was sleek and chic. But time has taken a toll on the restaurant. The restaurant no longer seems as stylish as it had once been. The plates don't need to be refreshed, but the tables might be. The room is so 1999! The food is so tomorrow!

Blackbird
619 Randolph Street (West Loop)
Chicago
312-715-0708
http://www.blackbirdrestaurant.com/

Vealcheeks

GAF wrote:Why then is Blackbird not often listed in the company with other four star restaurants, where, by virtue of the food it belongs? When Blackbird opened a decade ago it was sleek and chic. But time has taken a toll on the restaurant. The restaurant no longer seems as stylish as it had once been. The plates don't need to be refreshed, but the tables might be. The room is so 1999! The food is so tomorrow!

Blackbird
619 Randolph Street (West Loop)
Chicago
312-715-0708
http://www.blackbirdrestaurant.com/

Vealcheeks

Food wise, it's certainly a 4-star restaurant. The place they desperately need help is in their service. I understand the team concept of everyone does everything, but frequently that leaves us sitting at the table wondering where our waiter is when we want to order an additional glass of wine or if we need water refilled.

Service was certainly not a problem yesterday, but it must be admitted that the restaurant, although not empty, was not completely filled either.

I've probably dined at Blackbird 50 times and I can't remember a single experience where the service was less than good (and usually great) except for one weird experience when I tried to eat at the bar but I don't want to talk about that.

I've never found service to be an issue at Blackbird. My biggest "complaint" is the seating design. I recognize there's a limitation imposed by the basic layout of the available space but that doesn't make a whole bunch of tightly spaced tables running along a common wall any more enjoyable, especially for those that have to squeeze in between the tables to sit against the wall.

Kman wrote:I've never found service to be an issue at Blackbird. My biggest "complaint" is the seating design.

Kman,

Agreed on the seating, though my solution, as a larger individual, is to request table #15, which is the table nearest the door along the window. This, and the table directly east, have a fair amount of elbow room.

Far as Blackbird's service, I've always found the service exemplary, from the hostess reflexively picking up a stray glass here and there to one of the partners out in the street hailing taxis for patrons. My father, who has a keen, and critical, eye for service pronounced Blackbird's service slick and sophisticated, a high compliment indeed.

Enjoy,
Gary

We tried the tasting menu at Blackbird this past weekend and thought others might be interested in more details. The tasting menu we had was comprised of 7 courses (5 savory, 2 dessert), all of which were items from the regular menu. We also had an amuse at the start of the meal and a sorbet following the savory courses. We thought it was a great way to sample the various items from the menu and in particular, items that we may not have otherwise tried.

Spanish mackerel, preserved lemon, garlic chips
white sesame seed soup w/ smoked eel, fennel, candied black olives and red grapes (Henriot Souverain Brut, Reims n.v.)
seared diver scallops with black truffles, salsify, banana puree and candied oats ('05 Sanford Santa Barbara Chardonnay)
'scotch' quail and egg w/ fresh bacon, pomelo, marcona almonds, parsnip puree and american sturgeon caviar ('06 Prieure de Montezargues Tavel Rose)
sauteed sea bass fillet and 'brandade' with fennel, brussel sprouts, amaranth ('06 Gypsy Dancer 'Emily Ann' Oregon Pinot Noir)
braised organic pork belly w/ kohlrabi, cherries and bbq consommé ('05 Joel Gott California Syrah)
Camapari sorbet
chestnut financier with dates, sorrel and banana ice cream ('00 Royal Tokaji Aszu)
bittersweet chocolate pave with caraway ice cream, roasted pears and candied olives (Taylor 20yr Tawny)

The only miss on the menu was the white sesame seed soup, which we thought was just okay. I don't think I really want a soup made up of ground sesame seeds. But the eel and the fennel slices that were included as garnishes were tasty. I thought the sea bass was the real standout. Each component was delicious on its own, but when brought together in one bite, you really felt like it was a truly composed dish. Don’t get me wrong - the pork belly was also outstanding - but at this point, I expect that anything Kahan does with pork is going to be terrific. This dish was no exception. But the flavors of the sea bass dish were a nice surprise.

Tasting was $100 and the wine pairing added $40.

While it was a good way to try the menu, I didn't feel like it was a tasting menu in the way that Avenues or Alinea does it. It went along course by course, savory followed by sweet, but there wasn't the same feeling of progression or story that we have experienced with tasting menus elsewhere. But all in all, an experience we enjoyed and would recommend.

shyne

My wife and I are headed to Blackbird on Friday, celebrating a birthday and our first night out since the birth of our son six weeks ago.

Any recommendations on "must haves" that are currently on the menu?

From the current menu, a few must try items, IMHO:

Appetizers

'scotch' quail and egg with fresh bacon, pomelo, marcona almonds, parsnip puree and american sturgeon cavier 15.

salad of endives, crispy potatoes, basil, dijon, pancetta and poached egg 8

Entree

braised organic pork belly with toasted farro, braised kolrabi greens, hibiscus jus and fried rosemary 32.

Desert

It looks like they took the bacon ice cream off the menu, if they have it you cant miss.

Enjoy Blackbird, it is one of my all-time favorites

I had lunch a few days ago with some coworkers and it's just as great as every other time I've dined there (this was 2nd lunch, and been 4-6 times for dinner). My last lunch was a 3-course pork meal (suckling pig, pork belly sammich, and bacon i/c with donuts). This time I was recovering from a wicked cold so I took it easy.

The daily soup was parsnip: no cream, pureed smooth and garnished with green apple slices and delicious, crunchy bacon. Quite comforting and delicious.

I asked our server for a rec on entree beside the piggy sammich, and he suggested the whitefish sammich. It was a delicious melding of smoky grilled whitefish fillet, a light lemony aioli, and gribiche (a savory egg/mustard/cornichon condiment). There was a petite potato salad on the side along with parsnip & potato chips.

Others at the table had pork belly sammich (he said thanks for suggesting it) and the bouillabaisse (high comments on that as well).

We skipped dessert, but they have recently added artisanal rare teas, from single to triple digit pricetags. I would've loved to try one of the big daddies (especially with my cold) but $150 for a pot of tea isn't in my budget.

wino66 wrote: $150 for a pot of tea isn't in my budget.

Woah. Do you remember the tea brands? i wonder how much they would cost retail.

cellared Pu-erh was the expensive one, but I can't remember who is doing the importing/cellaring. The $150 one was a 25yr tea, I think.

We interrupt this program for a special report on important local lore....

Pie Lady wrote:By the way, on a completely unrelated, non-foodie note, isn't the El always referred to as an El? My boyfriend says that the El is referred to as a subway when it's underground, and I say no, the El is the El and that's it.

Differentiating between subway and elevated trains is a New York/Boston thing. In Chicago, they are both, officially, the 'L' (not "El").

Chicago Transit Authority wrote:The Chicago Transit Authority runs buses and elevated/subway trains ('L') in the city and nearby suburbs.

Sometimes you hear people using "subway" when they want to refer specifically to the underground sections of the Red and Blue Lines, but it's still the 'L,' a nickname that predates the CTA and was used by 19th-century private transit companies.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled discussion of Blackbird....