I'm happy to see people haven't forgotten about Spicy Thai Lao. Here's something I meant to post after our
Lao banquet in February but I forgot. I didn't edit it much so some might be a little out of date.
laikom wrote:This was my first experience eating at a restaurant that bills itself as being even partially Lao, but considering that the chef is from Thailand, and that almost every dish served here is also served in Iasn restaurants, it got me wondering what exactly is Lao food, and should we really call this a Lao restaurant?
Although Lao is part of the restaurant's name, their sign describes the food as Northeastern Thai.

I've probably been guilty of overemphasizing their Lao offerings, but I focused on the then-off-menu Lao dishes because the cuisine is so underrepresented in Chicago. Certainly, as you point out, there's a lot of overlap between Northeastern Thai and Lao food, and probably no consensus definition of Lao food is possible. For our banquet Kaew, whose first language is Lao but who grew up in the northeastern corner of Thailand very close to the Laos border, simply chose those dishes she's most comfortable with and that tend toward Lao rather than Thai. I doubt she'd claim most of the food was purely Lao. Much of her cooking is distinctly different than what I've eaten at Thai or Lao restaurants (all in the US, most in Chicago). I notice their new supplemental Lao menu uses the term "Isan Lao Style." Regardless of labels, it's a different style of cooking than what I've come across before.
In an interesting coincidence it was almost exactly ten years ago that we last enjoyed a Lao banquet. You can read Seth Zurer's account of
our Lao meal at Nhu Hoa (a very good Lao restaurant on Argyle, now closed). Ant eggs with an Old Potrero chaser!
It's easy to get carried away with the "secret menu" Lao stuff and miss some excellent food hidden in plain view on their regular menu. Even dishes that might sound ordinary are often given a different twist. I've barely scratched the surface but want to mention a few dishes from their regular menu I tried recently. First, here's the menu [from March 2014].

jimswside wrote:curious, I have seen pictures of their storefront that mention "lunch specials" anyone who has visited spotted them on the menu? I have not seen them on the online menu.
Here's a scan from the other side of what I think is the current [March 2014] menu.

Jefe wrote:Had a great 2nd outing here yesterday. Did not run out of time to try the soup this time. We ordered spicy and ours had a much more prominent slick of chile oil floating on its surface. It was hot, but not as much as our salad and curry later in the meal. Another question– in previous versions has the celery been cooked al dente? I appreciated the crispness and it called to mind our conversation about the potatoes in the mussaman. Anyway, fantastic dish, with its dark broth, deep flavor, celery, and rice, its somewhat reminiscent of gumbo. I believe there is a toasting of chile employed somewhere in the preparation which lends a subtle smokiness, also gumbo-esque.
Here's a somewhat spicier bowl of kow-tome we had more recently.

I think a certain level of heat is almost essential in this soup. Even more recently I tried a bowl with much lower chili content, hardly any red to be seen. It seemed unbalanced and paradoxically the smidgen of chili heat somehow seemed sharper and more pronounced. A surprising gustatory illusion. The beef version we had at the banquet suffered a bit of this fate but not to that degree. This is a dish I'd strongly suggest ordering hot.
It's difficult for me to avoid ordering kow-tome every visit but I finally managed to try the oxtail soup.

This soup is quite mild, somewhat pho-like, with cinnamon and star anise flavors predominating. According to the menu it's prepared in a pressure cooker so the vegetables become significantly softer than is usual here.
These chicken patties, the avian analogue of tod mun, were surprisingly good. I'd almost given up on fish cakes after so many disappointments in many different restaurants but I'm looking forward to trying Kaew's version.

Her cooking generally shies away from sweet but these crusty beauties sat on a plate glazed with a sweet sauce. The cakes' craggy surface prevents them from soaking up too much sweetness.
Before I get to our Lao banquet, here's another shot of the unnamed beef curry discussed several times in previous posts. It wasn't served at our big meal but it goes by the name beef pad-tamin on the new Isan Lao menu. It's been a little different each time but this might have been my favorite rendition.

Whole green peppercorns added an aromatic note to the heat of the red pepper and the earthiness of the turmeric. Some egg rolls, soup and/or one of the salads, beef pad-tamin, and I'm happy.
A few weeks ago [written in March 2014] dishes like that beef pad-tamin were available only by special request. While thinking about dishes for the Lao meal of February 16, Kaew and George decided to compile a printed Isan Lao menu and make copies available to everyone. Ordering the dishes we enjoyed a month ago should now be routine.

The takeout menu posted farther above and this Isan Lao menu have been combined into several plastic-laminated pages that dine-in customers now receive.
deesher wrote:Spicy Thai Lao is closed on Tuesdays. I tried to call for some time and on the tenth try I got an answering machine that actually picked up and stated this fact.
Current hours are listed on their website (link in post #1). I'll add that information at the end of this post.
jordanhojo wrote:Kow poon?
Not on the menu but you never know what's possible until you ask. Personally, I'm more interested in trying the kow-soy (khao soi).
On to our megameal of February 16th. . . We ate almost the entire Isan Lao menu from beginning to end. Even though they're only on the old menu, we started with egg rolls. How can you not get egg rolls here?
Spicy Thai Lao Egg Roll
These things are delicious. Makes you wonder why more cooks don't add curry spices and whole herb leaves to their egg rolls.
Lao Style Cucumber Salad
This salad was a great introduction for what was to follow. The contrast to the "usual" Thai cucumber salad couldn't be more clear. The expected sweetened vinegar marinade was replaced with the tartness of tamarind and the salty depth of fish paste. I loved this salad.
Lao Style Chicken Wings
This was the best version of wings I've had at STL. The taste of white pepper stood out from a complex mix of spices. The sauce was some seriously funky stuff.
Lao Style Beef Jerky
I liked the sweet-salty flavor and soft-chewy texture. Would go great with beer (or Mekong whiskey). Hmm…maybe we should organize a "drinking food" meal.
Kow-Tome (with beef)
Pleasant enough, but in the future I'll stick with my favorite version: chicken, extra spicy.
Lao Style Tom-Yum
This take on tom yum was bracingly tart, hot. and herbal I'll definitely have this again.
Jackfruit Salad
I've had this several times and always enjoy it. It's a good choice for those not up to the challenges of the bamboo salad.
Bamboo Salad
A very fine version, but the sewer-y aroma might be a bit much sometimes.
Lard Neua
I really liked the ultra-fine texture and spicy juices. This is why sticky rice was invented.
Som-Tum
The knife-cut, unpounded papaya strips and the ultra-tart dressing make this one of the most distinctive versions around. Salads are surely one of Kaew's strengths.
Lao Style Chicken Sausage
Fresh and vibrant (terms I've never used to describe Thai sausages) but unfortunately quite dry.
Batu Lard Prik
Too sweet. One of the few dishes I wouldn't order again.
Pad-Cha Squid
The aromatic sauce, heavy with pureed green peppercorns, was a good contrast to the other lighter flavors in the meal.
Coconut Ice Cream with Sticky Rice
A good ending. Due to lack of stomach space we missed out on the Beef Pad-Tamin (pictured earlier in this post) and Mango with Sticky Rice but otherwise I think we covered the entire new menu.
Mike Sula's review of Spicy Thai Lao can be found in the March 6 issue of the
Reader:
Make the drive to Chicagoland's only Lao restaurant.
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jimswside wrote:Your description of the Beef Pad Tamin is also right on. One of the better things I have eaten this year, the rough chopped herbs, spices, etc. made this dish pop. I asked for my version "medium" heat after learning from my 2 previous visits they mean business when they say hot. Even at "medium" this beef dish was a scorcher, but great.
Yep. When you say "hot" you'd better understand what the word means. I appreciate that they haven't dialed down the heat-o-meter.
Binko wrote:That beef tamin is probably my favorite food discovery of the year. The rest of the menu I've had has been solid (although I've found a couple dishes a bit too sweet for my tastes, like the mackerel and the masaman) , but that particular dish is transcendent, redolent of "green" and woody herbs and spices, and an assertive heat (I like this one searingly spicy). It's going to be hard to get me not to order it every time I visit here. Unfortunately, I get into this habit of finding one dish I really, really like at a restaurant, and then I go to that restaurant for that reason only. The beef tamin here is one of those restaurant/dish combos.
Once I tried the beef pad tamin, I've had it every subsequent visit. Egg rolls every single time. I don't see anything wrong with that!
The mackerel is simply too sweet for me to enjoy. The last time I ordered masuman, it seemed slightly sweeter than I remember. I wonder if it might be a new batch of paste.
Vital Information wrote:No longer will, having to schlep out to Midway, be a schlep. Not when dinner comes next here. I'm pretty much ditto to all that above. My favorite Thai meal in some time. So many things worked for my wife and I. She does not eat flesh, and their insertion of tofu for beef in the pad tamin did nothing to denature the dish. In fact, I have not seen veg integrated so well into curries since the late, lamented Thai Grocery in Uptown. I have to say, she was pretty giddy with he veg eggroll too. Several hours after the meal, my lips still pleasantly tingled.
I'm not too surprised to hear about the vegetarian dishes. Kaew's husband doesn't eat much meat so she's used to cooking that way. I assume she still uses some fish sauce etc. Has anyone tried to order pure vegetarian food here?
Vital Information wrote:I gotta echo most of the sentiment about the jerky. Given that we had like seven dishes for three, and no clunker, the fact that the jerky was easily my favorite says a lot about how good it was. And it was not just the wholesome beef, it was the homemade Thai pickles on the side, something I've never quite had--it was described as their version of kimchee, and that sauce of roasted scallions, garlic, tamarind and more. Wow.

I'm a fan of the jerky as well. Love the moist-chewy-salty-sweet texture and flavor, and the accompaniments. I think pairing the jerky with kimchee (topped with chopped fresh ginger) is somewhat new at Spicy Thai Lao. As I understand, it's not a traditional accompaniment, simply something Kaew thought would taste good, like curry-accented egg rolls.
Spicy Thai Lao
5357 State Rd
Burbank IL
708-424-1758
http://spicythailao.com/Mon, Wed & Thu 11am-10pm; Fri & Sat 11am-midnight; Sun 2:30pm-9pm; closed Tue