JimInLoganSquare wrote:Just returned from a stunningly good meal at Lula Cafe. The highlights included (1) an amuse of candied fennel creme soup with chives, perfectly seasoned and perfectly warm (and warming); (2) a cheese plate of bittersweet dairy 'feliciana' (a soft and fat-rich cheese like a velvet cheese-hammer), 'morning fresh blue' (dense, dry and hard, unlike any blue I've had before, an analytical cheese, if you can indulge me that appellation), on a plate dressed with succulent sweet figs, impossibly thin slices of apple, streaks of balsamic glaze, sugared walnuts and two dainty slices of honey-dripping panforte; and (3) a special entree of four large and exquisite broiled scallops (scallops are something Lula consistently does very well, to the point where I consider it a signature ingredient), served in a cured-ham rich chowder broth and diced potatoes. That broth could have been thicker and richer by half, but this is a minor notation, not a complaint, about one of the finer entrees I have enjoyed over the past couple of months. Mrs. JiLS enjoyed her standard Lula choices (house salad and pasta yia-yia -- she's one of those who love this love-it-or-hate-it dish). A very satisfying meal, both from the perspective of pure enjoyment and aesthetic or intellectual appreciation of "what they were getting at." Topped off with a bottle of Alsace white at a very reasonable price.
Jim,
A very nice description of a meal that sounds quite good and something I've come to expect from Lula's evening specials. Your post, along with the fact that it has been a while since I'd last had dinner there, prompted us to head to Lula on Monday to check out the "farm dinner". It has been close to a year since I've enjoyed this fixed-price treat and I'm glad I went back.
For those of you who are not familiar with it, the "farm dinner" is a $24, three-course dinner featuring ingredients that they were able to source from local farms either that day or extremely recently. The menu is different every week, often surprising, and, in my opinion, always delicious.
The first course was a generous hunk of fresh braised pork belly (labeled "fresh bacon") served with mustard butter and roasted shallots and brussels sprouts. The pork was flavorful and tender. With the mustard butter, it was among the best things I've eaten all year.
The second course was a roasted duck breast (perfectly medium-rare inside with crispy skin outside) with a
crépinette of duck leg meat. These were served atop creamed spinach and roasted, diced parsnips. The duck was delicious, the portion was huge, and everthing worked perfectly. The most surprising element were the tiny cubes of parsnip which added bursts of sweetness and smokiness simultaneously. The least surprising element was the fact that I'm still convinced that few restaurants can handle fowl better than Lula.
The final course was a refreshing lemon-lavender panna cotta with lemon sorbet. I don't think any local farms are selling lemons right now, so I'd assume the local element was dairy and lavender. A nice, clean finish to a hearty, rich meal.
petit pois did not go for the farm dinner, instead opting for a rich rutabaga soup with truffle butter and celery root and a grilled pork loin with figs and cabbage. I loved the soup but only tasted a spoonful as my attention was focused on the pork belly in front of me.
I've had many dinners a Lula and I keep coming back, not because of tunnel-vision, but because they consistently serve me fresh, interesting, and delicious meals at a pretty reasonable price. If I do suffer from tunnel-vision, the easiest way to break that would be to serve me sub-par food, which Lula has never done.
As far as value, the Monday-night farm dinner ranks with fixed price meals like
Le Buchon's Tues. night menu as one of the best values in town. Other nights of the week, there are a handful of entrees under $10, and usually a couple evening specials under $20.
I'll gladly accept Lula for who and what it is: A restaurant that consistently makes me happy with their terrific food.
Best,
Michael