I visited Hop Leaf for the first time some weeks back and had a thoroughly enjoyable time. The greatest pleasure was having the chance to hob-nob with a lot of LTH-friends and to meet some for the first time (Louisa Chu, Ronnie Suburban), but there's no doubt that the excellent Belgian beers and very tasty food from Hop Leaf's kitchen also added greatly to the merriment. I wrote the following not long after that event but forgot to post it...
Having received dispensation from Reverend M'th'su, I was able to break fast and order steak-frites for dinner. I enjoyed both the steak and the frites very much but I thought I might add the following observations, some of which are more observations than criticisms, some are criticisms at least from a Belgian perspective:
• the overall platter struck me as more French than Belgian in spirit, from the cut of the meat to the rather thin size of the frites. Not to say that similar offerings cannot be found in Belgium but over many, many years of experience, this is not the sort of 'abstract ideal’ or 'typical' version one might well expect from a place that advertises itself as offering Belgian fare. This is perhaps not very serious criticism -- in a way, not criticism at all, if the steak-frites is good (and it was) -- but I do think it worth noting.
• places in Belgium that specialise in or serve vast numbers of steak-frites -- and Hop Leaf does seem to do that – very often and, indeed, normally offer diners two meat related choices: 1) cut of meat (at least a couple, sometimes several cuts are offered); 2) size of meat portion (many places will offer a range from 200 grams on up, though never in the caveman sizes of American steak houses).
• in addition to the choices regarding cut and portion size of the meat itself, most places known for their steak-frites and almost all basic restaurants that regularly serve the dish offer a number of different sauces to go with the steak. No sauces are offered at Hop Leaf, all steaks coming with herbed butter (which, again, is quite tasty, but definitely not my preference when sitting down to a Belgian-style steak-frites).
• the frites were thinner than they typically are in Belgium and sufficiently so that they tended to the crispy side and lacked the glorious contrast of crunchy outside and soft inside that the type which I favour has. But again, I thought Hop Leaf's fries were quite tasty and I left none behind.
• most places in Belgium automatically bring a second bowl of freshly fried fritten/frites when they see the diners are running low -- no extra charge. This would probably be considered a bad business practice here in the States but it is also one of the many reasons I hope to move back to Belgium one day.
• this is a criticism: Belgium steak-frites platters in my experience
always come with a little mound of vegetational relief from the meat and potatoes. Sometimes it's not very voluminous and not too much more than a garnish, but it's there and it is meant to be eaten and, to my mind, serves as an essential element to the meal. Water-cress, frisée, some mixed greens... whatever, but something that is fresh and palate-cleansing is there. Hop Leaf serves the steak-frites without even the most minimal vegetation which strikes me as a real shortcoming, especially since the diner who wishes to have a balanced meal must then choose from one of three $8 salads (all of which are too complicated and heavy to serve as a simple accompaniment to a steak-frites meal).* In my estimation, they ought to give a little something on the platter
and, if they feel the need to keep it more garnish like in size, they really should add a simple salad and perhaps one or two vegetable
contorni, as it were, to the menu. To me, a heap of fried potatoes and a piece of meat alone is a little barbarous. And even lobbyists for the Dairy Council might agree that herbed butter is even less of a vegetable than ketchup.
• In Belgium, one typically drinks wine with food, including steak-frites, though it is considered absolutely normal to drink beer with simple, traditional (non-high-fallutin') dishes such as
steak-frites or
moules-frites or
carbonade or
stoemp. But the beer drunk then is traditionally and still normally a simple basic beer, a Stella or a Jupiler or Wieze or Roman or whatever the local equivalent is. No such basic beer was listed among the on-tap offerings. If they don't offer one, they should. If they do, they should list it and not just steer diners to stronger, more expensive beers, which to my mind aren't for the most part meant to be drunk with food.
• Given the $18 for the steak-frites, the $8 for the salad, and the cost of the strong and flavourful beers that one perhaps ends up drinking in place of a simple
pintje (though these are also pretty expensive
chez nous), the cost of a
steak-fritten-en-pintje easily climbs up to and over the $35-40 range. In Belgium a steak-frites meal of comparable and even superior quality can be easily found outside of tourist-zones for a good bit less, along with the bottomless bowl of fritten.
Indeed, to my mind, one of the marvellous things about Belgium is how well one can eat for relatively modest amounts of money and, as the sort of ubiquitous national dishes,
steak-frites and
moules-frites /
biefstuk en fritten and
mosselen en fritten, can be found most everywhere with – from an American perspective – a remarkable pairing of high quality and relatively modest price. Of course, Hop Leaf is in Chicago and, moreover, it is, -- so far as I know -- the only place in town that advertises itself as being (in some sense at least) Belgian, and so they have the opportunity and right to ask what they can get. And so it’s not cheap, but in fairness, I don’t think Hop Leaf’s prices are outrageous.
So then, I really enjoyed Hop Leaf and will happily return if and when the occasion arises. Insofar as the above points are or can be construed to be criticisms, they are for the most part (save the – in my estimation – egregious lack of at least a little vegetable matter on the steak-frites platter) instances of nit-picking. But then this is a site where we should be able to pick such nits.
Eyet mi, dji so todi la po dîre åmèn.
Antonius
* Amata and I split a salad with endive and blue cheese and it was really very nice, but the blue cheese was to my mind a bit over the top, in the overall context of the meal, given the garlic mayonnaise and the herbed butter and beef fat and fried potatoes.
Alle Nerven exzitiert von dem gewürzten Wein -- Anwandlung von Todesahndungen -- Doppeltgänger --
- aus dem Tagebuch E.T.A. Hoffmanns, 6. Januar 1804.
________
Na sir is na seachain an cath.