After seeing Chicago Station’s pic of Coal Fire Pizza’s sausage pie and reading JeffB’s above comment “Chicago sausage on a Totonno's looking pie? Guess I picked the wrong day to give up pizza.”, I couldn’t help myself and look at photos side by side of Totonno’s and Coal Pizza:
Coal Fire Pizza's Sausage
Totonno’s Margharita
Although the pies have their notable differences, I found myself enjoying Coal Fire’s pie in much the same homey way as I do at Totonno’s. The classic thick “lip” found on both these pizzas is the real highlight for me.
I wasn’t totally enamored with their cheeses, especially their fresh mozzarella which I found flat and downright boring. Coal Fire uses Bari sausage, consciously trying to stay loyal to the neighborhood cause which is a substantial improvement over anything I’ve ever ingested on the East Coast (Besides Nick’s!!). At first, I thought the tomato sauce (Stanislaus tomatoes from California, I believe) too insipid, not really adding much dimension to the pizza. However, with each successive bite, its natural sweetness and beauty came out brilliantly.
But the real star of Coal Fire’s pies is its bread. Damn, I just love this stuff! The crust is airy and well blistered, bubbles galore, and with absolutely beautiful pliancy and chew. Most important of all, it has wonderful flavor.
Like so many of the great East Coast pizzerias, the importance of proportion with regard to ingredient usage is of paramount importance. Many Chicagoans struggle with East Coast and classic Neapolitan pie’s judicious use of ingredients since, historically, most Chicago pizzerias are much more liberal with the quantities of their toppings.
The quality of Coal Fire’s overall ingredients appears to be marginally below many top pizzerias around the country (the obvious exception being the sausage), but the enjoyability of their pizza doesn’t suffer, largely because the excellent bread is accented, not overwhelmed by the toppings. Unlike so many serious Eastern Coast pizzerias, which use sugar and/or oil in their dough (both are often used as a preservative for the dough as well as accelerating rising times. Sugar is often times added for color. They were not employed in most dough recipes until sometime in the 50's.), Jay sticks simply with standard King Arthur all- purpose flour, water, salt, and yeast.
This is honest pizza; a beautiful hybrid between traditional Neapolitan, NY Neapolitan, and Chicago bar pizza. This pizza excels without being overly loyal to any particular school of pizza making. Pizza with a soul like this goes a long, long way. As Alex Delarge says in “A Clockwork Orange”, this pizza gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling “all through me gulliwuts.”
It’s amazing how good Jay is already after just a few days as a professional pizza maker. One has to wonder what heights he’ll reach in the foreseeable future.
I believe Coal Fire Pizza will become my go-to place.
White Pie at Coal Fire Pizza