I returned to Arun's last night for the first time in years, all thanks to a Groupon. At $60/person, I figured it was worth another look. Overall, a rather mediocre experience, lacking to some degree in every respect.
Let's start with decor. I don't think it's changed in 20-plus years. They even have their 1980's track lighting still in place. And the men's bathroom proudly featured a hand-pumped dial soap dispenser, a really old electric hand dryer (that you could hear from the dining room) and no paper towels. Table decor featured plates that were probably beautiful 10+ years ago but now show some scratches and age. From what meets the eye, this looked like a stubborn restaurant with little desire to attract new diners or to adapt in any way.
One of Arun's two dining roomsWith the Groupon, we were given Arun's standard 12-course menu - 6 appetizers, 4 entrees served family style and 2 desserts. The first appetizer was the one-bite salad and it was a terrific start to the meal. Well balanced, spicy, fishy, and a fresh and beautiful betel leaf. A very promising beginning.
One-bite saladNext were fresh spring rolls. I should note that your server asks whether you would like your food mild, medium or spicy. My dining companion asked for medium, and I asked for spicy. The difference was evident with the spring rolls where I was given two large slices of fresh, hot pepper (only one for my dining companion). We also experienced one of the service misses at this point, with the person delivering the food having to ask us which one of us ordered the spicy food. Not a huge deal at most restaurants, but Arun's is selling (and charging for) an upscale service experience. That, for sure, was missing.
The spring roll itself was fine, but unremarkable. At least they still know how to make those pretty vegetable garnishes, as you'll see below. The main selling (and I assume pricing) point to the dish was some crab meat placed between the two spring rolls, but even the crab was unremarkable. I would not be shocked if you told me it had emerged from one of those jumbo-sized cans at Costco, which would have been just fine, but that crab is nowhere as delectable as freshly picked crab meat. I should also note a dab of mustard in one corner of the plate (not pictured below) which would be worth noting in the egg roll thread because it was really potent.
Fresh spring rollsHoi thawt, the Thai mussel omelet, is one of my favorite Thai dishes. But too often in Chicago, the mussels featured in the dish are so bad as to slowly chisel away my willingness to order the dish. Arun's hoi thawt was quite good - crispy edges, leading to a softer middle with plump, briny and delicious mussels. I would have preferred a looser egg middle, but it was still terrific. The omelet was served with two sauces, including a sweet-spicy chili sauce, that were perfectly fine, but seemed designed more for appearance than for quality and flavor.
Mussel omeletArun's take on a nam tok followed, and featured major highs and lows of the evening. On the plus side, a wonderful and clever combination of flavors, including pomegranate seeds, avocado, a wasabi-lemongrass sauce and plenty of fresh hot peppers. Perhaps it could have been more herbaceous, but it was still quite delicious. And almost every element of this dish was terrific, except for the most expensive ingredient, the beef, which was cooked to medium/medium well. Whatever flavor this beef once had was sucked out by overcooking. There is no excuse for serving this beef cooked beyond medium rare.
Thai beef saladNext was a soup that I believe was Arun's take on Khanom Jin. Regardless of what it was, it was a letdown for me. Spicy heat was promised, but it really wasn't spicy at all. Nor was there anything in the way of funk or deep flavor. It tasted more of an average tomato-based soup, with a miniature pork rib on the bone lurking beneath the ultra-thin noodles. I kept thinking of the soups and khanom jin at Aroy and wishing that was what I was eating.

The final appetizer was a relatively unremarkable noodle dish that included coconut, tofu, hot pepper and fish sauce. Unfortunately, the coconut flavor dominated and stole away complexity.

The four entrees were served at the same time, and unfortunately, there was not a single hit in the bunch. Beef tenderloin in a massaman curry was a disappointment in multiple respects. The massaman curry itself lacked the complex punch of other versions I've tasted. But perhaps the greatest disappointment was the beef tenderloin, which was overcooked and stringy. This was a dish that really called for a different cut of beef -- short ribs or beef cheeks perhaps. But not only did the tenderloin get lost in the curry, it never should have been cooked beyond rare.
Beef tenderloin in massaman curryThere was a perfectly cooked lobster, but expensive and luxurious ingredients were not enough to save this dish. The lobster was served with a slightly sweet, gloppy sauce that I cannot describe any better. I'll admit a little bias here as I love lobster, but tend to prefer it more simplistic, with just butter and lemon.

Chicken larb was probably my favorite of the entrees. It was delicious, though I was missing but spice heat and the funk I get out of my favorite versions of the dish.
Chicken larbFinally, there was snapper served in the style of pla rad prik. Unfortunately, though it featured a beautifully fried piece of snapper, the sauce was way too sweet. I wish I could have ordered in Thai Aree's sauce for this dish (along with a whole snapper). At least carrot Nemo was there to smile at me.
Snapper/pla rad prikWe were served two desserts. The first was perhaps the most flawless dish of the evening: a kabocha squash custard with sticky rice and a pandan-coconut sauce. The perfect Thai dessert also incorporates a healthy dose of salt, and that was the final touch this dessert delivered to make it perfect.
Kaboch squash custard with pandan-coconut sauceArun's should have stuck to the more Thai-style dessert. The next dessert was a cookie cup filled with a sorbet (lychee and an ingredient I cannot remember) and the sorbet was terribly dry and grainy. There was also a poached pear, which with the sorbet, made for a seemingly disjointed dish.

Only three of the twelve dishes were ones I'd be really happy to have again: the one-bite salad, the mussel omelet and the kabocha squash custard with coconut-pandan sauce. And I kept thinking that I would have been far happier enjoying a feast at any one of a half dozen or so Thai restaurants in town. Arun's simply did not deliver complex and wonderful flavors of Thailand that so many other places in town deliver.
It also seemed like much of the cost of this meal was due to more expensive ingredients that were really unnecessary, and in some instances, not cooked well. However, I assumed that service was also part of the Arun's experience, but service was also a major letdown. Dishes were often left on the table well past when we finished a dish. I suppose I prefer this to another pet peeve, i.e., servers trying to remove dishes before I've finished. We also had to frequently request that our water glasses and wine glasses be refilled. And they always had to ask which one of us was drinking sparkling water. Multiple times servers asked which one of us ordered the spicy food. And there were long gaps between courses. The meal lasted three hours, whereas it really should not have lasted much beyond two hours.
Though Arun's seems to be promising a high level of service, there was nothing about the service that stood out and they seemed poorly trained. They were polite and friendly, but that was about it. I suppose I was happy to return and see what's cooking. What I found was a restaurant that feels like it's about ready to give up, that's not willing to invest anything into its future. So goodbye Arun's. I'm guessing we will never meet again.