ronnie_suburban wrote:
I found Eataly to be remarkably annoying and I was there when it was fairly empty, at about 7 pm on a Monday evening.
I'm sure shopping can be fine. I found it an overwhelming, stressful branding gang-bang that felt pasteurized, soulless and insincere. I know that many of the items on the shelves and in the cases are of good quality but prices were high and it would take a great deal of costly trial and error to learn what's great and what isn't. Conversely, at a place like J.P. Graziano, for example, I know the proprietor, trust him and know that if it's in his shop, an item has been suitably curated. With 'feel good' billboards touting self-created brands throughout the shopping area at Eataly, it felt the exactly opposite. Totally impersonal. Additionally, produce was abysmal and I don't see how on earth they're going to move some of that inventory (salumi, cheeses) before it expires.
I found Eataly to be remarkably like Las Vegas. Given that I like Las Vegas, my overall impressions were no where this negative. On the other hand, I don't entirely disagree with some of the words expressed above. Like Vegas, you can feel overwhelmed, stressed, soul-less and insincere. Still, as in Vegas, sometimes it works!
I cannot say I walked away from Eataly wholly impressed. In fact, due to the overwhelming, stressful habitat there, I baled before getting a really good understanding of the place. Unlike Ceasar's Palace, one cannot go up to their room for a little respite. I agree given choice after choice of brands and products I've never seen, how do I know which to buy, especially as there seems to be a pretty direct correlation between products I don't know and price. Yet, to compare this place to neighborhood stores like Bari or Riv makes little sense.
For one thing, the volume and selection makes the comparisons daft. More importantly, I'm mostly comparing on things I know, not on the 1,000's of products at Eataly I don't know. The cheese sections was not as great as Standard in Westmont, but it was very, very good, with many examples of our outstanding local cheeses. On a related front, the LeClaire goat's milk was cheap enough that my wife's inspired to make me cajeta. The salume were nearly all from above quality producers like Quercia and Smoking Goose. The packaged, sliced trays were not absurdly priced for what they were. The bread we brought home fits well into the bread renaissance we've had in Chicago but at no where near the price off, say Little Goat.
That was the good. What surprised me, or really did not because I really expected nothing, was the produce. Still, it was of high prices and poor quality. I know it's the dead of winter, but I've been to several area farmer's markets in recent weeks, and I know you can still do some cool things with roots, variations of potatoes, way better apples... From the produce, to what I saw in the fish, made me think of Fox and Obel, and I fear that Earaly will fall prey to a similar management directive that failed F&O. That is, a drive that each section pull it's weight or produce profits. What I had read about the seafood and what I saw last night were pretty different. It was nearly all fillets yesterday, and not impressive ones and that. In this area, Eataly did not pass favorably compared to some place near Harlem or for sure not Super H or Fresh Farms. Clearly, the lack of sales in fish is driving things. I bet the same thing will happen soon in meat. My wish for these kind of places is to maintain a true Euro quality inventory of meat, fish and produce and just chalk it off to ambiance. Profit can surely be found elsewhere.
I only ate one thing in house and that was the gelato. It was probably the best gelato I've had in Chicago. Don't believe me. Just compare Eataly's pistachio to any other pistachio at places selling gelato in Chicagoland. One tasted of nuts, with a full range of flavors, including bitter. The other will taste like pistachio "flavor."
It's a cool place. Just like you don't go to the State Street Marshall Field's to do your regular shopping, you don't necessarily go to Eataly every day. When there, until overwhelmed, you can find some good stuff.
Think Yiddish, Dress British - Advice of Evil Ronnie to me.