I'm absolutely falling in love with this place. Over the past few weeks I've been to Publican three more times and have had fabulous meals each time. It's really dark in there, so I'm not going to bother posting pictures that don't do the food justice but really, there is no place like this anywhere in Chicago. This constantly-evolving menu is arguably the most distinctive one in town and it's comprised of ingredients that are top of the larder. The dishes are well-conceived, well-executed and innovative.
The number of beer and oyster offerings alone put most other restaurants to shame. Tonight for example, 8 different varieties of oysters and over 60 beers were offered. And the choices in both categories are phenomenal, too. And even though items like wine and spirits are not the focus, the limited choices in those categories are outstanding and thoughtfully-chosen. Bourbon-wise, in my several trips to Publican I've enjoyed Hirsch 16, Eagle Rare 17, and even a special barrel select, cask strength Old Weller bourbon chosen personally by the bar manager of The Violet Hour.
Foodwise, there's a notably memorable mix of excellent house creations and exemplary renditions of proven classics, too. Tender and sweet Nantucket Bay Scallops with celery root and black truffle were so good I wanted to lick the plate on which they were served. Bouchot Mussels with gueuze, bay, celery, butter and garlic were also amazing and the pot liquor in which they were cooked was good enough to bathe in. The house-made pork rinds are lighter than air and really taste like pork. Imagine that . . . or go to Publican and eat them yourself.
Meaty braised oxtails with brussels sprouts, peanuts and breadcrumbs as well as crispy/tender sweetbreads over smothered greens and topped with pickled onions were delectable. I also loved an aromatic celery root sformato that was served with brussels sprouts (what can I say? I love them) and apples. An artichoke salad, which incorporated bresaola, feta, red onion, olive and oregano, was sensational. Publican's frites, topped with sunnyside-up farm eggs, are amazing.
Delicately smoked trout with apples, pickled fennel, fromage blanc and hash browns was amazing. A shrimp dish (whole, head on) with lobster mushrooms and grits delivered intense flavors and a phenomenal combination of textures. A combination "fry" of clams and walleye, served with celery root, lemon, parmesan and harissa aioli was immensely satisfying. Lentils with pig's tail and creme fraiche were tender, earthy and delectable. Even a humble side of brussels sprouts was roasted perfectly and dotted with generous lardons of smoky-sweet bacon. Porchetta with rosemary, leeks and beet mostarda was the ultimate trump card of unctuous pork.
It's actually hard to make choices at Publican because of the incredible selection of hard-to-find-anywhere-else ingredients. The dishes I've not ordered could comprise a feast fit for a king: tripe gratin, marrow bones, boudin blanc, suckling pig, country ribs, potee, pork confit, radishes, beets, leeks and kuri squash are calling me back; haunting temptations all.
While the space is definitely loud, I have come to love that aspect, as well as the energy that emanates from the room. At tonight's 'business' dinner I had no trouble whatsoever conversing with my dining companion. What it keeps coming back to for me is how, from top to bottom, in every perceivable way, Publican is genuinely distinctive. Unique space, fantastic service, mind-blowing food. Not every dish is perfect but that just doesn't matter when a place is turning out this kind of food and taking big-time culinary risks. Over the long haul -- plate over plate and glass over glass -- this is one of the most satisfying and important restaurants in Chicago.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain