Le Titi de Paris, Billiot NV Rose,& 1986 Gruaud Larose

To celebrate our 20th anniversary:

H. Billiot Champagne NV Brut Rosé
My last of six that I bought together about three years ago. I haven't had any newer lots that this, but I have had a few bottlings from earlier releases. I love this stuff. Not the most complex Champagne, but it is just delicious and fun. His vintage Champagnes are complex, but serious. This is the one you don't bring home to meet Mom. Strawberries, some brioche/biscuit, and who knows what else because I'm not paying attention. Not a fine bead, but it's OK. I am probably way too easy on this wine because I'm loving it…

1986 Château Gruaud Larose, St. Julien
I opened it about 5pm. The cork was inching out beautifully and I got cocky, yanked, and broke off the last quarter of the cork. Managed to get the last bit out whole. Poured a wee splash. Very amber and tasted tired. My last of a half case that I bought upon release with quite a few other 86 Bordeaux's. Great vintage AND the year we were married.

I was worried about this one. Gently decanted, rinsed the sediment out of the bottle, poured back in and re-corked. I threw my last 86 into my wine bag with it just in case. I was hoping to save the 86 Latour for our 25th, but we'll see. A little over two hours later, I pour out a couple of short glasses, and it is much better. Over the course of out three hour dinner, it miraculously found a fountain of youth. Dark purple and now with ruby edges, it has also become deep and murky. My wife's first sip was, "It tastes old." Maybe an hour later it was "Wow, this is a different wine. It doesn't seem old anymore." While it had secondary characteristics, they blended beautifully with the ample fruit and tannins. Tired no more, but proud and strong, with a middle-aged, rustic elegance. The usual Bordeaux stuff is here, dark currants, tobacco, led pencil, cedar, etc, but there is some funk, as well (leather, meat, a touch of smoke, and earth).

Yes, it will hold, but it sure is giving a lot of enjoyment now. With some youth, it is still at the top of its game.

And the food...
I don't know why it has been so long since we have eaten here, but we will correct this mistake. What a wonderful meal. We both had the 4 course Menu Gourmand, since it was a school night. A tremendous deal at $41.

First courses:
Assiette of Homemade Pâté, Rillette & Dried Sausage, Barlett Pear & Huckleberry Compote, Duo of Mustards (Dijon and Whole Grain) - everything was delicious and the most artfully presented plate of pates that I have ever seen
and
Peeky Toe Crab & Maine Lobster Galette, on "Creamed Leeks", Red Pepper Aioli - Oh, my God! Wow! Close your eyes and just moan...

Soups:
Autumn Butternut Squash Soup - excellent, ginger-laced, velvet-like, and with a few corn kernals for texture
and
Velouté of Wild Mushroom & Thyme - great depth of flavor. I wish I had a Barolo or an earthy Pinot Noir...

Mains:
"Hunter's Plate": oven roasted semi-boneless quail filled with porcini mushroom mousse & sweetbreads and slow-cooked Illinois rabbit leg over braised cabbage with green peppercorn sauce - Yes, it was as awesome as it sounds.
and
Basil & toasted peanut-crusted pork tenderloin, triple mustard spaetzle, with brandied peach essence - really nice dish

Dessert:
Trilogy of Desserts: crème brulée, almond praline ice cream, & bittersweet chocolate & espresso gateau - we both had the same, beautifully plated with Happy 20th Anniversary and our names written in chocolate around the rim.

and of course, Mingnardises, for an emergency.

Thanks to chef/owner Michael Maddox, whose constant presence in the dining room ensured a delightful evening.

Le Titi De Paris
1015 W Dundee Rd
Arlington Hts, IL 60004
847.506.0222
http://www.letitideparis.com

Al -- how do you transport a decanted bottle of wine without the risk of incurring a "Driving with open liquor" violation?

Sounds like an absolutely splendid meal. I'm so pleased you enjoyed yourselves. I do consider Le Titi to be a real gem, and I'm delighted that you got to see it shine for your anniversary.

Thanks for the detailed wine info, Al. I find it fascinating to see all these people who have '86 Bordeaux stashed away coming out of the woodwork. Keep it up!

JoelF wrote:Al -- how do you transport a decanted bottle of wine without the risk of incurring a "Driving with open liquor" violation?

Joel,

I threw it in my leather wine bag and put it in the trunk/cargo area of the SUV.

Speaking of wine bags, I just saw a much less expensive knock-off of my favorite. Many years ago I was the fortunate recipient of a Mulholland Brothers double wine bag. It has a removeable inner pouch for keeping the wine cellar-temp. Double is important because you should always have a back-up in case the first bottle is corked. The bag has held up well, is discreet, and is extremely handsome. The problem is it is very expensive. Red Envelope has one that looks similar (not as nice), but is significantly less money.

I also have some Built NY double bags, which are a nice design.

Best,
Al

www.mulhollandbrothers.com

www.redenvelope.com

www.builtny.com

Al,
Thanks for the review, which I enjoyed and found enlightening as well.

The one aspect of the evening you didn't mention is service. I gather, based on your description of the meal and your tone that service was excellent. Given our recent experience otherwise, I would strongly encourage you to commend the service if you found it as excellent as the rest of the evening. I just think that's it's important for all sides to be heard and even if--especially if--your experience was different from ours with respect to service, I think that people reading the board should be aware of that.

Again, thanks for the post.