I had a very solid meal at Naha tonight, one which included perhaps my favorite dish I've sampled in Chicago this summer. This was, in my mind, a four-star dish in a strong-two, low-three star restaurant.
I dined at the bar and found the restaurant's space quite pleasing. It's not quite a fine-dining dining room but an airy, elegant one. The bar was a bit sparse, but it fit its purpose. Naha didn't win any points with me for its obnoxiously wordy menu, resplendent with even more obnoxious quotes around seemingly random menu items. It's like the restaurant's owners took a page from the Thomas Keller school of menu writing, only worse. Some words, even the occasional letter, are in printed in bold-face font, adding to the visual disaster.
Thankfully, beneath this admittedly superficial shortcoming, the dishes themselves sound amazingly appealing. Here was a restaurant where I had difficulty deciding because of a wealth of appetizing choices and not because everything seemed boring.
I sampled the [pause for a deep breath] "Coddled" Organic
Farm Egg and Wood-Grilled Spanish
Chorizo Sausage with a Salad of Italian Frisee, Smoked "Red Thumb" Potatoes, "Homegrown Wisconsin" Red Radishes, Sweet Garlic and Herbs. And the
Gulf of Maine Sea Scallops dusted with Vanilla Bean, Citrus and Spices, Ruby Grapefruit, Caramelized Belgian Endive, Mache and Peppermint.
That was a lot of punctuation and formatting.
Thankfully it was delicious.
The egg and sausage dish was something I'd come up with but executed very well. A fundamentally simple dish but undeniably delicious. There's not a lot to say other than the fact that I'd order this again.
The scallop dish was truly a highlight. Everyone is all about scallop and citrus these days, but I thought the mint and bittersweet endive really took this dish over the top. If I could make one criticism it would be that it was slightly oversalted, but I've had scallop dishes in the best restaurants in NYC and Michelin three-stars in France that weren't this good. I was extremely pleased.
The dessert menu holds a rather obscene $25 cheese course with eight cheeses. How one is expected to eat eight cheeses after a full meal struck me as a bit strange, so I asked my waiter if the kitchen would do a smaller portion. They kindly complied and allowed me to sample four of the eight cheeses for $12, more than a fair value. The cheeses weren't necessarily at the peak of ripeness or the optimal temperature, but this was much more than a throwaway Whole Foods cheese course. Warm bread, sticky caramel-covered nuts, two jams, and some thin slices of apple accompanied my cheeses, so I was thoroughly satisfied.
Service was a bit perfunctory at the bar, but I don't really have any complaints in that department. I wonder as to the demeanor of the staff in the main dining room, as the service experience could solidify my impressions of the restaurant as being either very good or possibly excellent.
Naha is not cheap, but perhaps the only highish-end restaurant I've eaten at so far that I really want to come back to. The plate of Spanish pig products, more cheese, and a striped bass/pork belly combo are calling to me just a couple hours after my meal.