Rosebud on Rush: A Little LTH Love

A friend of mine wanted a quick dinner in River North (needing to return to an overscheduled conference) and selected Rosebud on Rush. I was less than enthused at the prospect, but sometimes the company matters more than the food - an idea that might appear odd or perverse.

I was a good companion and was suitably rewarded. Rosebud - one of the Rosebud collection of restaurants, around for three decades - does not aspire to Michelin stars - and it is neither Sabatino's nor Spiaggia, but based on service and the taste of the food, it is a generally good dining destination for those who wish to stay near the Magnificent Mile. And the portions are huge.

We began with two appetizers:

Fried Calamari - Lightly floured bady squid, deep-fried and served with cocktail or marinara sauce

Steamed Mussels - Mussels simmered in a spicy tomato broth

The Calamari were lightly breaded and fried, sweet and tender. The marinara sauce had enough herbs and spices and tasted fresh. Not the most distinctive sauce, but good enough.

The mussels were plump. Although the mussels were not at a peak of freshness, these were not much past their prime. This was not a transcendent dish, but a solid one.

As an entree we ordered:

Orecchiette Salsiccia - “Little ear” pasta tossed in garlic and oil sauce with broccoli and sausage

The pasta was nicely al dente, and the accompaniments were just fine.

And here is the happy catch: two starters and a pasta served four for dinner. Plus the waiter suggested a reasonably priced Chianti Classico, which was quite lovely (Antinori "Peppoli"). With wine we paid under $30 for four.

Rosebud on Rush was a pleasant surprise. Not a destination restaurant for Chicagoans, but a reasonable option for tourists on a budget who prefer not to select Ostaria via Stato or Spiaggia Cafe.

Rosebud on Rush
720 North Rush Street
Chicago, IL 60611
312-266-6444
http://www.rosebudrestaurants.com

I'll echo GAF in his measured praise of what is often an overlooked place on this belt of tourist, mainstream restaurants. I'll add to that -- Rosebud on Rush is one of the few restaurants that is actually open in the dreaded 2-5 timeslot where practically every restaurant in this district closes. This alone makes it a culinary gem.

I had the orecchiette salsiccia, and it was simply, but deliciously executed. The sausage was flavorful, the pasta al dente, and the garlic/olive oil sauce had a fruitiness reminiscent of good-quality olive oils.

My neighbor at the bar had the rigatoni alla vodka, and this appeared to be an above-average version of this ubiquitous sauce in texture and balanced coloration. (The menu noted that the sauce contained mascarpone, which I think, lended it that visual velvety-ness.)

My friend reported that a side of meatballs was spiced well and tender.

Your mind will not be blown by Rosebud on Rush, nor would I recommend this as a dinner destination. However, this restaurant tends to get lost in the proliferation of various "Italians" throughout the city, and when faced with the choice at 2:30 between a swiftly declining Bistro 110 and the Cheesecake Factory, Rosebud on Rush discharges its duties honorably.

Also on a side note their burgers during lunch are amazing. I think they were even picked in one of the polls about a yr ago as one of the best burgers in town. The pretzel bun is a great touch.

2Utah2 wrote:Also on a side note their burgers during lunch are amazing. I think they were even picked in one of the polls about a yr ago as one of the best burgers in town. The pretzel bun is a great touch.

I believe you are referring to Rosebud Steakhouse, which is a different restaurant, but part of the same family.

Rosebud Steakhouse
192 E. Walton
Chicago, IL