Yowza! Yukon River king salmon

I hadn't had an opportunity to taste Yukon River salmon before this year. Now, I feel like I never knew what salmon could be. What a rich and flavorful fish! This is the best salmon I've ever tasted, and maybe the best fish, period.

These salmon swim 2,000 miles up the Yukon to spawn, so they store up high levels of fat that account for their phenomenal flavor (24 to 30 percent vs. Copper River king salmon, which have an oil content of 16 to 17 percent). The carefully managed fishery provides a livelihood to Yup'ik Eskimo natives through community-owned Kwik'pak Fisheries.

I had an exquisite piece of salmon last night at Shaw's, served simply grilled, medium-rare, with a fresh tomato relish on the side. The interior flesh was moist, silky-fleshed and richly colored; the skin crisp; and the grilled edges slightly caramelized. It was costly ($35), but certainly worth every penny.

The Yukon River salmon run started in mid-June and lasts at most another week, so go get some right away!

Shaw's Crab House
312/527-2722
21 E. Hubbard St., Chicago

(I don't know whether they have the Yukon salmon at Shaw's in Schaumburg. Probably best to call ahead at either location. Some other fish houses may have it as well.)

Sounds delish!

I always thought king salmon was better. When we were in Alaska, a fishmonger commented, "that's why they call it king." Oddly, the food section of the Trib last week said that Coho was the best of the Copper River varieties.