jygach wrote:
was just going to say that (along with a few other places on Devon)... Most Nehari recipes use brain as a thickening agent for the rich gravy as well.
I have never heard of brain being used as a thickener. In India and Pakistan, brains are considered a great delicacy. As such, they are expensive and not always available. Frequently, one has to place a special order for these with the butcher.
Nihari is essentially a stew made with inexpensive meat parts and always includes the bones. It is the length of cooking time - generally six hours or so, that gives the dish it's rich gelatinous texture. Restaurants these days do not adhere to the long cooking time and may use flour as a thickner to speed the process.
Jyoti
I *have* heard of brain being used as a thickener.. but I agree, I dont
belive it is *routinely* used that way. And IMHO it is highly unlikely
that it is used that way in Chicago - at least, Id be stunned to find it
used at Sabri or Usmaniya.
Iam not sure Id agree entirely with the "stew made with inexpensive parts",
or the "6 hours cooking time", or even neccesarily the "gelatinous
texture" parts

I consider the nehari-gravy to be rich, very
rich.. but not really gelatinous - the truly gelatinous dish is, of
course, paya - ie trotters. Isnt paya (trotters) also actually
the inexpensive part of the animal in many places?
Really good nehari is made from the meat of the upper-thigh,
from what Ive always been told (paya is made from the
lower leg, the trotters). The upper-thigh meat can be rich and
meaty, and not always inexpensive. And the best nehari
Ive eaten (at Noor Mohammadi in Bombay) is actually cooked
for *12 hours* every day.. it goes on the slow-low-fire at
6pm exactly every evening, and comes off at exactly 6am
the next morning (and if you arrive after 9am, you wont find
any remaining). It is often also served (for a little upcharge
in price) as "nalli nehari" - ie bone-marrow, which is a
delicacy and expensive. (However, again, Ive not had it
served with brain myself- I ate a fair bit of brain growing up,
but am not a fan of the taste, and would have certainly noticed
if I had been served it).
c8w