Flying Too Close To The Sun - Kona Grill

Another chapter in the continuing saga of indifferent service & high ambitions that don’t make the grade.

We dined the other night at Kona Grill in Lincolnshire, party of six, early, restaurant about a quarter-full, if that. It was my third try at this place; the first two were pretty good from the standpoint of service, quality of food and cost. And I wanted to like this place---the menu sports upscale, interesting, healthy fusion-ist fare. It was almost going to be considered a destination place, certainly a middle north suburban meeting ground between family living in Glenview & Libertyville.

We were seated at the far corner of the restaurant in a round booth, seemingly miles from the bar and kitchen. Put our drink orders in, and waited. 5 minutes, then 10. After 15 minutes, the waiter returned, empty-handed, and said there was a hold-up because they couldn’t find the wine my brother requested. Fine—he switched vintages or brands or whatever, and after 20 minutes we had our cocktails, my brother with the wine he ordered in the first place that had been magically found.

Having already filled out the sushi menu, we gave it to the waiter, at which point he went into a description of Kona’s ‘dynamite roll’, which he said was pureed, roasted, rolled & broiled, and would no doubt have ended up being about as Japanese as lutefisk. We declined being dynamite and placed our dinner order at the same time. Four of us ordered the miso sake Chilean sea bass served with fried rice & Szechuan green beans, which was $21.95. And we ordered a side of sautéed baby bok choy.

The sushi was pretty good, considering the venue, but when our entrees arrived, I was amazed. The sea bass portions, slightly underdone but tasty, were no more than 3 ounces, maybe less, accompanied by a massive ice cream scoop of lukewarm fried rice that was a poor imitation of China Chef in Morton Grove and the green beans which were somewhere between raw & blanched, and sprinkled with red pepper flakes. Almost inedible.

I understand that sea bass is pretty rich fish as a rule, so that a small portion is probably enough. But from the way it was misrepresented on the huge plate, it’s entirely possible that they only had three normal-sized portions to begin with, and split it four ways. I just had that feeling right from the git-go. I was about to blow a gasket by this time, but my wife sitting next to me kept kicking me under the table and told me to make nice for the other folks & not be ‘like your father’. Heck, I thought the goal of every young (or middle-aged) man was to be like his father!

So I endured, but now I won’t be back either. It killed me to give the guy thirty bucks for a tip, which was still 15%, but realized it wasn’t all his fault. This was an example of upscale Asian fusion that fails on all counts.

Kona Grill
940 Milwaukee Avenue
Lincolnshire, IL 60069
847-955-1210

I hate to say it, but your comments do not at all surprise me. My impression of Kona Grill is that it essentially is the equivalent of an Asian-themed Applebee's.

I went there (that particular location, too) about a year ago, shortly after they opened.

Before I continue, I should note that I don't usually prefer chain restaurants, but I don't automatically discount them, either. I try them, usually when someone else is choosing the place. If I like them, I return, and if I don't, I don't. I usually have one of three reactions: (a) this is really, really good, I'd like to go back; (b) this is okay, nothing memorable, eminently forgettable; or (c) this is not good, some thing(s) that are really objectionable, whether it's food, service, etc.

I've been to three chain restaurants in that general vicinity within the past year. Kona Grill in Lincolnshire produced "reaction (b)". By way of comparison, the other two were Stoney River in Deer Park ("reaction (a)") and Claim Jumper in Wheeling ("reaction (c)").

I had a decent lunch at Kona once, and from my observations of the staff throughout the visit the management hasn't done a great job amassing a solid group. If they close soon I hope something cool goes in there...I really like the bar area overlooking the retention pond/lake.

I know exactly what you mean on that pathetic fried rice, their head corporate chef needs to re-work that recipe immediately.

Agreed, Tone---

When we arrived at 5PM, the host was rushing in behind us, threw his coat and hat aside, and then handed menus to the girl that seated us.

And while in the past the waitstaff was a bit cloying but tolerable, the waiter this time was young, forgetful & clueless. Maybe it's just my age, but I don't think I've ever seen anyone over 25 working there, leading me to believe that there's a high turnover rate among the help.

i've been to another location (Troy MI).. i had gone here before ever setting foot on hawaii and thought the menu was kind of cheesey and too themey (maui onion soup???) ... though after going to hawaii, i now look back and se e that many things on the menu are reminiscent of what you might actually see in a restaurant in Hawaii. even the maui onion soup...

I had the meatloaf which seemed like the best thing anyone at our table had. Someone else had some sort of Thai pasta, don't think he liked that much.

the service was kinda "ehh" .. not bad, not great... applebees is a good comparison!