The pizzeria formerly known as Wild Geese (Union Pizzeria)

nr706 wrote:Yep, Pizzeria is open.

(Sorry, nr706, don't know how I missed that )
Taking our direction from the giant hand-lettered OPEN sign on the window, we opted tonight to eat at Union Pizzeria. It's an interesting space, which anybody can look at just by driving by: the entire front of the restaurant is a bank of floor-to-near-ceiling windows. The ambiance is very trendy; the cavernous interior has a floor of polished cement, the ceiling is bare beams and ductwork, the lighting track and pendant, the walls unfinished brickwork with old plaster still attached - and the soft, piped-in music leans towards the trendy side of easy listening. In the back is some sort of not quite completed music performance space, and there's going to be some kind of members-only "club" even further towards the rear.

Somehow, through a wall of curtains and a few areas of drywall, the interior isn't noisy at all; we were easily able to converse with friends who happened to be at the table next to ours. The clientele was heavily weighted to families: lots of kids and grandmothers and many groups of 4 or more.

The good: pizza. We had three: arugula and prosciutto, margharita, and a lamb-sausage and eggplant. The toppings were excellent, but by far the best was the arugula prosciutto: a nice, light salad dressed with EVOO, parmesan and a bright counterpoint (lemon?) with nice portions of raw prosciutto over a crisp crust. Margharita was one of the better renditions I've had lately: tomatoes (whole canned, but very high quality un-fussed-with canned) blobs of mozzarella and basil leaves: we'd have preferred a bit more basil, but like all its bretheren, it dissapeared quickly enough (We almost had to arm-wrestle Sparky to get slices of these first two.) Lamb sausage with eggplant was also excellent: the sausage was a fresh lamb version of italian sausage, and the richness of the sausage and silky eggplant was set off by bright Kalamata olives and the same tomatoes as on the Margharita; the crust was slightly thicker to accomodate the heavier toppings. Pizzas were in the $11-$15 range and well worth it - and, a first for me - every one was crispy all the way through! My only caveat is that the pizza dough itself, while pleasantly crackery, didn't have much flavor - olive oil and salt on the table would have improved that.

The bad: not so much that it was bad in itself, just pushed my value buttons: we ordered the baccala for an appetizer. I was expecting a bowlful of dip and a sliced baguette: I got a 5oz ramekin of chunky mashed potatoes with the flavor and slight texture of salt cod and 3, count them 3, translucently thin slices of toasted baguette (no bread is offered during the meal.) $8. The server did warn us that the "sharing plates" were small, but I was expecting a bit more.

The fine: since someone had mentioned Campignola's polenta pound cake on the "Best thing...lately" thread, I was glad to find it as the only dessert offering. It had a nice texture, the peaches were pleasant, and the slice had been toasted.

I have to say, of the now four options I've tried lately for wood-fired pizza near Evanston, Union Pizzeria is the best: Trattoria DOC and Gruppo Di Amici commit the unpardonable by not cooking them sufficiently, Omaggio's crust may actually be better - but their toppings seem to tend more towards "trendy," which allowed the misstep of white truffle oil. We still haven't achieved my gold-standard Venetian pizza, but northside pizza treads ever closer to that mark...

Union Pizzeria
1245 Chicago Ave.
Evanston, IL 60202
847-475-2400

I ate there Friday night late and had the margherita pizza and a glass of beer. I agree with Michelle, good crust and ingredients. It's quite a bit "hipper" than most Evanston digs and I think it will do well once people hear about it.

Another thumbs-up for Union Pizzeria. Good crowd at 945pm on Saturday night; the bar was still bustling at midnight.

We had the chick peas and the meatballs as appetizers. The latter was especially noteworthy, made with ricotta cheese. We shared the margarita pizza and the lamb-sausage pizza. The latter was especially good.

Very interesting and well-priced beer list. I sampled the Grolsch on tap ($4); the Leffe ($3.50); and the Three Floyds ($5). Interesting and reasonably-priced wine list, heavy on Spain and Italy. The Baltos ($8 a glass) is very nice.

The space is really interesting -- it's an old Peugot dealership. Vaulted, beamed ceiling; exposed concrete walls; cool lighting above the bar; a lounge area in front with plenty of seats at the bar.

The only negatives: The temperature was uncomfortably cold -- my guess is the high ceiling and large windows make it difficult to control the temperature. Also, the wine pours were a little on the light side. Service was solid, not spectacular.

This is the best new opening for casual dining in Evanston in a long time, and automatically vaults to the top of the "hippest" rooms on the North Shore.

Made it to Union last night. We got there a little after 9, and the place was still packed. I can't imagine what the crowds will be like once they get the music space up and running.

We ordered the pizza Margherita, which, as mentioned above, was a minimalist pizza on a cracker-y crust, It's clear that the goal here is to use the crust as a textural element - I agree that otherwise it didn't have a lot of flavor.

And I also agree that it could have used more basil - it came pre-sliced, and some of the slices had no basil whatsoever - but otherwise it was a very satisfying nosh.

The wine list is reasonably long, and well-priced. I think that by being there late, we may have gotten a little heavier pour than if we'd been there earlier.

I'm not really sure where all the traffic is coming from - Dempster and Chicago Ave. has never been a particularly trendy neighborhood. Maybe Union Pizzeria will change that.

nr706 wrote:I'm not really sure where all the traffic is coming from - Dempster and Chicago Ave. has never been a particularly trendy neighborhood. Maybe Union Pizzeria will change that.

I know the few times I've driven by, Union Pizzeria always looks packed. I'm looking forward to trying it, but hope to find a down time.

I'm surprised nr706 thinks Wiener and Still Champion, around the corner, is not considered "trendy." I can't think of anything trendier than a Luther Burger, right?

Re Union Pizzeria, the chairs and the seating in general look uncomfortable. True or false?

Are they open for lunch?

Yes, Wiener and Still Champion is open for lunch. I'm going there this afternoon to try some of Gus' experiments, which sound like they may actually be hipper than the Luther Burger.

Oh, you meant Union Pizzeria? I'm reasonably sure it opens at 4:30 pm. Chairs were fine, sofas in front look particularly comfortable.

Drove past there after 10 pm last night and it was filled. They are doing a good business.

ChgoMike wrote:Are they open for lunch?

Just to confirm: Union Pizzeria is NOT open for lunch....

MHays and I were discussing a list of potential future destinations for the Evanston Lunch Group, and I called Union a couple of weeks ago to double-check.

First of all, for anyone looking for a recession-proof restaurant formula look no further: even on a Monday night--even amidst a downpour that cause power outages for a quarter of a million people--even amid several near power outages in the restaurant itself--this place had 25-30 minute waits throughout the evening. Either this says a lot about the restaurant or not a lot about Evanston.

Overall, pleasantly surprised. You can quibble with crust blistering and what not, but the dough was tasty and the lamb sausage/olive/eggplant pizza we had did a nice job of balancing out the saltiness of all of the pizza's components. On first impressions alone, I'd put the pizza above Trattoria DOC, if you want an E-town comparison.

We ordered some sides on the rather clunky menu and got a serviceable eggplant caponata--which essentially was a ragout that almost seemed to mime stuffing...but maybe that was the celery talking--and a braised kale which was fine though not memorable. I felt the place could really do some great things if it mined the Avec formula a bit more and offered a more coherent and composed list of small and large plates rather than the 1 dinner plate/1 sandwich/2 salads/6 pizzas/12 sides thing they have going on now, which sounds more like a meat + 3 restaurant than whatever the heck it is. I'd like to see the place be a bit more seasonal in ingredients and focus--what the heck is a lamb stew doing on the menu in August???

One pleasant surprise: dessert. We had a simple but homey "polenta"--but let's be honest, it was just cornbread--with fresh cream and peaches. It reminded me of an over-hyped dish I had at Portland's Le Pigeon last year that featured maple syrup and bacon on top of the cornbread, except Union's dessert was actually tasty (though Le Pigeon had that foie ice cream alongside...).

There was no wait around 9ish when we left, but all the tables were filled. This place is minting it.

Any updates? We're thinking of going next week with my folks (Dad's in his late 80s and gets around just fine but I'm concerned about the noise level...)

Seems like I end up there once a month or so - partly because it's right around the block, and partly because I'm amused that such a hip-feeling place actually opened in my 'hood (although, Wiener and Still Champion is also in the neighborhood, and you'll never find a place that's so anti-hip that it's actually hip). But I will say last time I was there, I saw people of all age ranges and demographics, seemingly enjoying themselves, and noise levels were reasonable. And the food's pretty good, too - the pizzas are of the minimalist variety.

The Lovely Dining Companion and I were there Friday night. We got there on the early side (about 6:15) and snagged one of the last tables in the joint. Wow! Saying this place is popular is clearly an understatement.

No camera, so no pics. But we were impressed and look forward to returning. We had two sides: eggplant caponata and the bacala. Contrary to Michelle's experience, our bacala was excellent: plenty of toasts, lots of cod (and lots of garlic!). Indeed, I commented on the chunks of fish in the bottom of the ramekin. I also feel compelled to note that since Michelle (Mhays) was there, the price on this side has dropped from $8 to $5--which we thought eminently reasonable. So, too, were we pleased with the caponata. Contrary to chezbrad's experience, we enjoyed ours very much. Although it was a bit oilier than necessary, it was rich in flavor and had plenty of tangy olives. If we had a complaint about either side it would be that there could have been a bit more bread--on the other hand, we didn't even try asking for extra, so have no idea how the request would have been received. Based on our interactions with everyone there, I have to believe that it would not have been a problem in the least. Our server was excellent: constantly attentive (which we considered remarkable given the bustle) without hovering. Helpful, informative, and timely. We also found that two sides were more than sufficient for us.

I had a Jever (a German beer new to me) which I greatly enjoyed with my pizza; we ordered two, the better to have some to take home with us. Mine was sausage and sweet peppers; LDC got the artichoke, arugula, Gaeta olives, and sweet red peppers. The menu should give you an idea of the selection: nice but kinda small. I chose the sausage in part because I was curious to see how good the sausage was. Answer: good but not more. I enjoyed the pizza but would not have been disappointed with even better sausage. LDC was quite pleased with hers and, though I definitely preferred mine, understand why she was so happy with hers.

A note on dessert: it's a pizzeria. We know. We didn't go expecting an extensive dessert menu. On the other hand, one doesn't enter a pizzeria expecting a tapas-style selection of sides, either. With that in mind, we were a little disappointed to have only two desserts to choose between: the previously noted pound cake with peach compote and a Valrhona chocolate panna cotta with brandied cherries. We went with the latter. Not large but very dense and very rich. In fact, the consistency was a bit more pudding-like than panna cotta-like but that's not a complaint.

It was very cold Friday night and, in part because of the cavernous interior (with no ceiling fans at all!), it was cold in the restaurant. We overheard our server tell the next two-top that the heaters were on full blast and that the heat would catch up--which it, in fact, did--but I find it hard to fault the place very much for this. It's a surprisingly cozy place for all its vastness (and I was a bit surprised at the apparent absence of the omnipresent NWU students; the crowd was definitely older, including plenty of families with smaller children) but we were pleased at the tab: about $45 for two pizzas, two sides, a soft drink and a beer, and dessert. We will most definitely return.

Glad to know the baccalao has improved: it sounds completely different from the version we were served - granted, that was months ago, perhaps feedback made its way back to the kitchen. We need to get back there, but are waiting for the roar of the crowds to die down a bit...

could be a long wait

I had dinner at Union this weekend and came away with mixed feelings. For me, the pizza was tasty and well-executed but I would not categorize it with the upper tier of places I've tried in Chicagoland. There were a few reasons for this but the main one was lackluster toppings. Cheeses, for example, seemed really run-of-the-mill to me and that was especially evident with the Margherita and the Quattro Formaggi, on which there was no place for the perfunctory cheese to hide. There was no depth to the cheese; no sweetness or pungency.

The artichoke pizza featured Roland brand quartered artichoke hearts right out of the #10 cans that adorned the dining room. Wild mushrooms on another pie were ok but they were cooked down to the point where there was no meatiness or mouthfeel to them at all. It wasn't that anything was bad, it just wasn't exceptional. If you view pizza as a place where each component should maximize the real estate it occupies, these pizzas were repositories of missed opportunities. And considering that Union's web site proclaims "We proudly use locally grown and organic products whenever they are available," these elements were particularly surprising to me. Yes, I know it's winter and there isn't that much fresh produce available but Roland artichokes? C'mon. I can do better than that at home.

Even the crust, which was wonderfully crispy, turned out to be another missed bet. It lacked complexity and any depth of flavor. If you're a fan of very crispy, cracker-like crust, you will probably appreciate it on a textural level -- the execution on that front was stellar. But if you like any chewiness to your crust, Union may not scratch the itch.

Before our pizzas, we started with some appetizers, which were decent. In addition to some tasty and herbacious smoked speck, we tried the meatballs, which were made with veal and pork, and served with ricotta and tomato jam. Two other appetizers were more photogenic than they were delicious . . .


Moroccan Chickpeas - harissa vinaigrette
Nicely tender chickpeas served warm in a tangy, slightly hot sauce.



Italian Green Beans - braised with tomato, rosemary & onion
Very ordinary green beans in a sauce that was kind of bland.


My favorite of the pizzas we tried was the Pepperoni & Sausage, probably because the meats brought a saltiness to this pizza that was lacking on the others . . .


Pepperoni & Sausage Pizza - mozzarella & Sicilian oregano



Edge crust
Crispy and thin crust. Well-executed but not long on flavor.



Bottom Crust
Would a bit more char have helped things flavor-wise? Maybe so.


For dessert, we tried the Panna Cotta described above by Gypsy Boy. As he mentioned, the texture seemed a bit too soft for panna cotta but the flavor was very nice . . .


Valrhona Chocolate Panna Cotta - with brandied cherries

As was touched upon above, the place was very busy. We arrived at 5 pm and by 6, it was full with folks waiting for tables and standing 2 and 3-deep at the bar. Toward the end of our meal, I did feel hurried by FOH people but I guess that was to be expected. When the dessert and the check are plunked down on the table simultaneously, I think that says a lot and none of it particularly good, either.

I'm not really sure what to make of Union. It seems like it has a lot of promise but is somehow missing the mark. Based on our experience, I think the shortcomings may have more to do with philosophy and decisions than execution. Textures, temperatures and combinations seemed like they were right on target (with the exception of the panna cotta, where the opposite was true) but with these ingredients, I'm not sure their food can ever be exemplary.

=R=

Ronnie,

With your photography, every place you visit looks like a GNR, even the ones that are only so-so.

ronnie_suburban wrote:Even the crust, which was wonderfully crispy, turned out to be another missed bet. It lacked complexity and any depth of flavor. If you're a fan of very crispy, cracker-like crust, you will probably appreciate it on a textural level -- the execution on that front was stellar.

Ron,

I realize you are lukewarm on Union at best, but crispy cracker crust is right in my wheelhouse.

ronnie_suburban wrote:

eat me eat me eat me
This picture calls to me........

Enjoy,
Gary

I had a great meal at Union last night. We started with three small plates: calamari in a somewhat spicy tomato sauce, roasted yellow beets with shaved fennel, and veal & pork meat balls. All were well prepared and really flavorful. Next we had a lamb sausage pizza. I agree with Ronnie that this pizza isn't in the upper echelon of Chicago pizzas, but the second echelon is still really darn good. The lamb was nicely and aggressively spiced. For dessert we had the polenta pound cake, the chocolate panna cotta, and some cinnamon ice cream (which I presume is made there). All were excellent, esp the pound cake.

They have a great beer, wine, and cocktail selection (we went with the Qupe syrah) - all reasonably priced.

Yes, the chairs are not that comfortable.

We ate at Union last night before the California Guitar Trio show at SPACE -- the back half of the building, a great concert venue, and pizza from the front of the house can be brought back (but not other food).

Veal/Pork meatballs as mentioned above we had in the bar area before the show. Great, with a sweet/salty tomato-onion jam, that was very nicely complemented by the Cote du Rhone MrsF ordered.

I wanted the lamb sausage pizza, but MrsF vetoed it due to the presence of eggplant. We had the artichoke, which had fresh mozz and olives. Nice crisp thin crust, but overall underseasoned: no hot pepper shaker in SPACE, and really what it needed was a bit of salt.

The last show we were at we had the chocolate panna cotta, and it too was excellent. So all in all, it's a pizza place where the pizza is the weak link, perhaps. Not bad, but needs a couple tweaks.

California Guitar Trio are great, I saw them at Borders in Deerfield many years ago.

Maiden voyage to Union tonight. Can anyone comment on the wines and what to expect? Are they byo friendly? Corkage?

I do not want to contradict some of the most respected contributors lukewarm comments upthread but personally I've been an unconditional fan of this placefrom Day 1. Never had a mediocre meal there.
Try their $ 25.00 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo or Valpolicella, perfect with pizza.
Enjoy the very tasty Lamb sausage, or plain sausage, pizza, and luscious meatballs and/or bruschetta as an appetizer.
I do not think that they are BYOB.
Come early or very late to avoid a long waiting line

We went there about a year ago, before seeing a show at SPACE, the theater behind the restaurant. We were disappointed in our food; we had an appetizer, pizzas, and a dessert, and none of them was particularly good. We decided to go elsewhere next time we're headed for a show at SPACE.

Incidentally, the website for SPACE says you can order a pizza at Union and bring it in to SPACE to eat. I would avoid doing so, because the setup at SPACE is not conducive to that. If you have a reserved seat/table, you get one tiny cocktail-type table for four people, and if you're sitting in the rows on the side, the only place you'll be able to hold your pizza is your lap. We were a lot more comfortable eating in the dining room of Union before the show. We lucked out by being seated immediately upon our early arrival (around 5:45 on a weekday IIRC), and waits of 15-25 minutes to be seated began shortly thereafter, so allow plenty of time if you're going that route.

I've eaten at Union Pizza twice over the last month and I don't understand why this place isn't consistently mentioned in conversations about the best Neapolitan-style pizza in the Chicago area. It's my favorite. The crust is crackly, but also with a nice chew and the pie is cooked all the way through. Toppings are clearly very high quality. I had the prosciutto-arugula which was the best example of this I've ever had--great quality ham, great quality arugula dressed perfectly with lemon, great quality olive oil, and shards of shaved parm, and perfect hot crispy crust.

On my second visit I had the mushroom pizza with fontina and sage. Loved the flavor of the mushrooms with the cheese and copious amounts of fresh herbs, but I wished that they were a bit more heavy-handed with the toppings. I usually appreciate sparseness when it comes to pizza toppings (especially with Neapolitan-style). Other than that, it was spot on.

I"ve also tried a few other dishes--brussels sprouts with roasted squash and bacon, caponata, and the pound cake with peaches. all were good to outstanding. it's really a luxury to have a place that sources ingredients so carefully and treats them with such respect within such close proximity. Union is going to become one of my go-to places, I think.

I had a moderately successful lamb sausage pizza at Union earlier this week; crust was perfectly cooked but not particularly flavorful; charred olives were spectacular, lamb sausage contrastingly undercooked, and unseasoned eggplant didn't add anything, but rosemary tied the room together. With a better ingredient combo I can picture a really good pie at this place.