My first experience at Piccolo Sogno last night and it was quite the Jekyll and Hyde experience. We showed up for an 8:30 dinner reservation and were told that our table wasn't ready. It didn't take us very long to notice the 20-30 people huddled around the bar and realize that the restaurant has no clue how to time reservations. With 3 people at the host stand, you'd think one of those 3 could have issued an apology, but no . . . the attitude was more defiance. At about 9pm, we were told we could take a table right by the door and host stand, where everyone was waiting (essentially, the bar area), or we could wait a little while longer for a table in the dining room. We chose to wait and we also started considering other dinner options. While phoning Otom to see if we could get a table, we were told a table was now ready . . . 9:05, 35 minutes after our reservation . . . oh, and still no apology. (But see the end of my review for the partial redemption).
But the food . . . the food was very good, probably even excellent.
Bread service is generally unremarkable, except that in the bread basket are these thin little breadsticks (I assume homemade) with a nice anise flavor. I could eat these all day.
Cecina fritta - these are chickpea flour "french" fries sprinkled with parmesan and rosemary. I was hoping these would taste like the panisse I had enjoyed a few years ago at Pili Pili. This version was very good, but I didn't love the texture. They were generally crispy on the outside, but I didn't love the souffle-like texture in the middle (really a personal preference). I would have preferred them to be a little bit more crispy on the outside and dense in the middle. Still, the flavor was good.
The
wood grilled wild boar sausage was served with sauteed white beans in a tomato-based sauce and the sausage packed some very nice flavor. The sausage also had a very nice crisp bite. A special of
sweet potato soup (can't remember all of the flavors working here) was also very good.
Best of the appetizers though were two excellent pastas:
paglia e fieno with a veal ragu and
spinach and potato gnocchi with oven dried tomatoes and mushrooms. The paglia e fieno was great. The pasta was excellent (I'd be shocked if any of their pastas are not house made) and the veal ragu a thing of beauty . . . fantastic flavor and exactly the proportion of ingredients I'd expect in a great ragu. The gnocchi light as a feather and the flavor of the tomato and mushroom mixture also very good.
As for mains, I ordered the fish special of the night, the
wood baked, salt encrusted branzino (pictures above). The branzino was outstanding and just melted in the mouth. This was one of the best pieces of fish I've enjoyed in a long time, and the citrus-fennel flavor fantastic. The braised fennel on the plate really did not deserve to be out-staged because it was outstanding on its own. Fish does not get better than this.
The
lasagna bolognese would have been great, but for it being served merely warm. Thankfully, Piccolo Sogno does the lasagna with a bechamel and not layers of ricotta. The bolognese sauce, with the bechamel, served between layers of house made pasta really was excellent . . . it just needed to be served hotter.
I was not as bothered with the
pappardelle with spicy wild boar ragu as was Kenny Z. I thought the flavor of the ragu was nice, again served with perfectly cooked pasta. My only complaint is that I had already tasted the paglia e fieno with veal ragu and this was not quite as good.
Desserts, on the other hand, were not as impressive and need a bit of an overhaul in my opinion. One exception was the house made
blood orange sorbet. Both the flavor and texture were excellent.
A special of
mille feuille was layers of puff pastry with pastry cream mixed with chocolate chips. Perhaps it was intended to be a whimsical take on cannoli, and it was ok but nothing special. There was way, way too much powdered sugar on the top layer of pastry, and the puff pastry did not hold its shape as well as it could have. Plus, there just wasn't enough flavor working here. Infusing the pastry cream with some orange (maybe zest), adding some candied fruit . . . anything really . . . would have made this a very good dish. As it was, it was a little boring.
The
apple tart was the biggest disappointment. Essentially, it was mushed apples on a mushy crust. Doesn't sound appealing? Good . . . don't order it.
As for service once we were seated, it was excellent. Our waiter was friendly, knowledgeable about the menu, and attentive. The pacing of the meal was also excellent.
When we first sat down we explained to our waiter the issues we had being seated, and at the end of the meal, he brought a gentleman from the host stand over to us (who I now recognize from their website to be the co-owner). They comped our first round of drinks and dessert and we finally got the apology we should have received earlier. In any event, they eventually did what should have been done and we were appreciative.
As for the crowd, I'd say it was a little odd. A mixture of very young and very old like I cannot recall seeing anywhere in Chicago. Also, some people were dressed to the nines, many others in jeans. Decor is equally strange. Some modern touches, some very old fashioned chandeliers (and right next to track lighting). I guess they couldn't settle on one design pattern so they chose several.
In any event, I thought the food was excellent and I'd be thrilled to return . . . but if I walked in and witnessed the same fiasco I experienced last night (inability to manage reservations), I'm sure I'd be out the door much quicker. But I've always been a huge fan of Tony Priolo's cooking and it's clear he's running the food show here.